What kind of a die do I need for 30 carbine shells?

[NB51]

I've got a 30.06 die set for reloading my M1 shells, and now I'd like to start reloading carbine shells. Is the a specific carbine die set by name, or is it designated by some other identifier?

Information

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[MEHavey]

If you are serious, look here:

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewproduct...tnumber=816935

[Litt'le Lee]

like a pistol round-you need a 3 piece die set and know how to load pistol
ammo

[John Kepler]

Based on the question.....you need more than just an appropriate die-set! Dies are VERY cartridge-specific, and yes you MUST have and can buy from a number of different manufacturers an M1 Carbine die-set to load that specific cartridge. You also need to learn one hell of a lot more than you apparently do now before you try and use it!

BTW, you shoot "shells" in a shotgun or artillery piece, "cartridges" in a rifle or pistol.

[NB51]

....and no I don't plan on going off half-cocked into the reloading world. I understand the seriousness of doing things right and by the book. Reloading IS new to me and I'm moving into it cautiously and correctly. First I purchased the newest Lyman reloading manual and read, and re-read, through the first chapters to get familiar with the process and jargon and how to read the charts and specs. Then I sat with my father-in-law, a WWII marine and life-long shooter and reloader, as he showed me how to reload ammo for my M1 - we did 100 rounds and then went to the range and had a great time.

I suppose I could have found the answer to my question in some part of the Lyman book that I haven't got to yet, but I figured I'd pop the question here 'cuz I knew you guys would point me in the right direction - with a large measure of caution and warnings. I appreciate that.

[AKA Hugh Uno]

although a carbide die is OK, the .30 Carbine is NOT a straight-walled pistol cartridge and you WILL in fact still need to lube the cases, or at least every 2nd or 3rd one. get some H110 or some wc820 (if you can find it) and start loading it up.

[Dan In Indiana]

Years ago I started out with a carbide die, didn't figure I needed to lube, wrong thinking, every 3 worked out fine. Hated the 3 die thing, thought about it, laughed about it, and forgot about it. Now just use a 2 die method. Took a while to figure it out, but when I was looking at over a thousand cases, wanted to give my hands a rest, and put brain to work. Before bi-focals, was getting 2 inch groups at 100 yards. Now it's mainly a wall queen, the garands and the M1A get played with now.

OFC

[Jerome Cooper]

There are a number of firms making die sets for the 30 Carbine and it is not possible to say that one manufacturers dies makes better ammo than another one's. The 30 Carb is not a straight case; it has a slight taper, but most folks loading this cartridge get carbide dies(most of them use a carbide ring) and should lube every third to fifth case anyway. Its easier on the dies and reduces the effort to size the cases. Carbine cases should be checked and kept trimmed to the correct length. Also keep your primer pockets clean; a primer pocket cleaner or a 1/8" screwdriver will do the job. If you are using military brass that has a primer pocket crimp then you have to get rid of the crimp as it will interfere with the proper seating of new primers. 30 carbine was made to use round nose bullets and those are the ones that will feed properly and reliably. Bullets with "flats" on their noses may/can...and often do jam or hang up. A number of different powders will work very well in this cartridge; you have to/should consult a good loading manual for the exact data on the powder that you have to/intend to use. There are also items that you HAVE to pay attention to. One-- of course is the overall length of the loaded round. The bullet cannot be too long as that will make it to long to fit in the magazine. Two--there must be adequate neck tension(grip) on the bullet so that it doesn't move freely under pressure. Three--and this is important to understand.....the cartridge when loaded--seats in the chamber on the case mouth so you can't roll crimp the mouth(tuck it in)---you have to use what is called a taper crimp which kind of crowds the case mouth against the bullet and does not turn it inwards. It leaves an edge to the case mouth that you can feel with your fingernail. Your seating die for 30 Carbine shoud do this. If you don't have enough taper crimp then the mouth remains a little too flared and the round won't seat easily or at all. If you put on too much taper crimp then the round goes too deeply into the chamber and the firing pin may not reach far enough to detonate the primer. General ideas include using the right amount of powder so that the gun recycles, ejects and picks up a new round and gives you the best accuracy that you can adjust it for. GI military ammo generally runs around 1900 fps. Things will go ok if you go a little slower such as with cast bullets, but if using those you'll usually need a gas check (design) and of course they have to be lubed. Lee, RCBS, Lyman and Saeco all make molds for bullets in the 115-120 grain range that work well. I personally use the RCBS version, but the Lee is a close copy. You might ask what dies I use or other relevant info. I use the Lee dies as I like the non breakable decapping pin feature and their thru the center powder pouring feature on their expanding die that accomodates a funnel or a powder measure. I also like their lock rings although some folks don't. I use IMR 4227 powder, usually 13.0-13.5 grains and as previously mentioned a slight taper crimp. I also shoot this combination in a Ruger Blackhawk 30Cal revolver. You may want to try other powder combinations or simply use jacketed bullets and other brand dies;whatever works for you is what you go with. good luck and good shooting. JC

[USSR]

If you are using military brass that has a primer pocket crimp then you have to get rid of the crimp as it will interfere with the proper seating of new primers.

USGI military .30 Carbine brass never had a primer crimp.

Don

[jjroth]

and lube every fifth case.
BUT am reloading only USGI or Commercial cases, as some foreign cases have thicker walls.

Powderbeing used is the IMR-4227 and small rifle primers with either the 110gr FMJ (any manufacturer) or the Hornady 100gr SJ plinker bullet.