Stripping the Bren Gun

[stencollector]

The original barrel nuts also had a little external obstruction that prevented something else that....I won't go on. BUT, the Pilkington Committee on the simplification of small-arms got rid of all surpflous crap and the cheap Mk2 and later lightened Mk3 emerged.

I assume you are talking about the little block which prevented the piston group from going all the way forward if the nut had not fully locked the barrel. This prevented firing on an insecure barrel and having the barrel head downrange.

[Peter Laidler]

That's the thing SC. But my understanding of this thing was that it prevented the gun from being stripped in the wrong sequence....., in that you couldn't remove the barrel until the breech block and piston had been removed. But also, you couldn't tighten the locking nut with the piston extension in place.

[stencollector]

The gun just has to be cocked to remove the barrel, the piston/breech block group did not have to be removed.

[Kev G]

Not sure what the technical name is for the safety device is on the early barrel locking nuts but I'll call it a restrictor. I'm loathe to call it a cam as T.D. called it in the BGS because it doesn't act as a cam.



With the early nuts with the device the barrel can only be removed with either the working parts forward or removed.

With the nut uncatched from the body the working parts are blocked by the restrictor from being retracted to cock the action.
With the working parts to the rear and the action cocked if an attempt is made to uncatch the barrel nut the leading face of restrictor will foul the working parts and stop the nut from rotating and being uncatched from the body.

A very simple design by Vaclav Holek on earlier ZB's to stop the barrel accidentaly being shot off after a barrel change/assembly when the barrel nut has not been locked properly afterwards.

KG

[Peter Laidler]

We got rid of this thing, called the interlock lever in mid 1940 at the insistence of the Pilking comittee. I don't now why it was called an interlock lever. It was an interlock something or other but not a 'lever'. I've only ever seen a few but the Bren EMER gives instructions that if encountered, they should be removed with a hacksaw and the metal made good. I don't know what sort of hacksaws and files that had in the 1940's but they must have been blxxxy good because the steel is diamond hard and a hacksaw won't touch hem. Maybe they meant a grinder!

[Brit plumber]

I've a number of the barrel nuts/levers and they have definatly been ground off. I feal for any bloke who was told to "Hack saw" it off, and then do the other 200 while your at it.

[Peter Laidler]

I tried to retro modify a Mk2 barrel nut to Mk1 spec on the milling maching....... but only once! It certainly made short work of the milling cutters. Talk about hard..............., phew!

[stimpsonjcat]

Well met!

I am about to start my build of a semi-automatic Bren gun.

I am a little puzzled over the magazine catch and ejector removal. It looks like the pin cannot be knocked out as the head seems to be in a recess. Am I bonkers? Do I just pound this out?

Also, any idea how to remove the block in the receiver that the rifle headspaces on? I am not 100% sure I have to remove this yet.

Many thanks for your time!!!

/edited to add...
Nevermind, I figured it out!!!

[tankhunter]

Well met!

I am about to start my build of a semi-automatic Bren gun.

I am a little puzzled over the magazine catch and ejector removal. It looks like the pin cannot be knocked out as the head seems to be in a recess. Am I bonkers? Do I just pound this out?

Also, any idea how to remove the block in the receiver that the rifle headspaces on? I am not 100% sure I have to remove this yet.

Many thanks for your time!!!

/edited to add...
Nevermind, I figured it out!!!

The Ejector Block retention pin SHOULD push out from left to right. It is held in position by a spring loaded plunger. Some are tight, a light tap with a drift & a hammer should move it. You DONT have to POUND it!
Then the ejector block assembly can be lifted out.
Underneath this you will encounter a staked screw. this retains the Locking shoulder you are on about. This componant is what adjusts the headspacing by selective fitting with head spacing gauges. (.064" - .074" H/S Gauges If I remember correctly for a .303" weapon.)