Cracked stock replacement options

[pathdoc]

Hi.

I've come over at the suggestion of the gunandgame.com forum with a question regarding the best option for my #1MkIII*

A short time ago I found that I had a loose fore-end and a nasty crack running from just forward of the magazine well to about six inches forward of that, dead centre down the long axis of the rifle. How it got there, I can only suspect, and I suspect it was my fault.

ANYWAY... While I'm scheduled to have a gunsmith look at it in the new year, I'm canvassing options should repairs be impossible. One of these is, of course, new wood when and where I can find it. The other is a synthetic stock.

I come asking advice regarding the latter. What can people here tell me about what's out there, and what works best/should be steered clear of? At the same time as I get it put in for stock repairs, I will also be fitting one of these ATI no-drill no-tap scope mounts to see how that goes. If that doesn't work, it comes off and I revert to iron sights for target work.

Thanking all in advance.

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[Alan de Enfield]

Maybe I'm putting words into other folk's mouths but I think you'll find that everyone here is an Enfield purist and would be against a synthetic stock.
Complete 'new' stocks are available (dirty, oily but in good condition and with a bit of work 'as good as new') for less than the price of a synthetic.

I've seen them at US$60 - $100 but whats available in Aus I dont know.

[pathdoc]

This would strictly be a temporary solution. I have every intention of reverting back to 'full wood' at the earliest possible opportunity.

[JBS]

Posting some photos of the stock fracture will be of great assistance. In my shop I would probably use a small spreader and some thinned wood glue, yes I know there are synthetics and epoxies available but I like the old fashion water proof carpenters glue for wood stock work. I spread the crack a bit and inject glue and then go outside and sling the stock from each end and let centrifugal force drive the glue deep into the crack. Then bind up the crack till the glue dries wiping off excess with a damp cloth just before it dries. You may or may not want to use a brass cross screw grinding off the head flush with the wood after all is dry.

I would also see if you can entice Mr. Laidler to chime in on how to make this repair exactly as he would when a full time Armourer.

You can also try and contact jollygreenslug in your country for an opinion or source for replacement.

[Peter Laidler]

Pssssst Pathdoc, come a bit closer and lend me your ear. We had umpteen stocks that suffered from this problem and we would..... listen, just look back and I detailed exactly what to do a couple of months ago. It's permanent and the little oak peg is all that will show. Then you can tell the purists that's the way REME and RAEME Armourers have done it to SMLE's for over 100 years.

[louthepou]

Yup, repair it, take your time, follow Mr Laidler's instructions and enjoy the fruits of your labour

Lou