What a C2 barrel currently worth?

[rgg_7]

What is a new, unfitted, Canadian manufactured, C2 sniper barrel worth? Bore is mirror finished, exterior parkerized, correct sniper profile, chambered, no gas block and requires threads cut for your action and head spaced. This came out of CAL and was owned by the same gent (still living) all these years.

Information

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[browningautorifle]

I don't follow...the C2 was the automatic rifle and the C3 was the sniper rifle. The C3 had no gas block and the C2 was a heavy automatic rifle barrel. What do you have, got pics?

[rgg_7]

Barrel is for FN C2A1 Automatic 7.62mm.

[browningautorifle]

Then what's all this talk about a sniper barrel? Anyway, you would have to get the collectors to bid on it. You can't get those things across the border with any certainty so it's stuck in whichever country it's in. BUT... it WILL sell well. If it's perfect like you say, it will command several hundred to the right individual. It would be a nice addition to an otherwise mediocre gun.

[rgg_7]

The FN collector I showed this to used the word "sniper".....I'm bolt action guy and don't know anything about the FN. I did managed to get a copy of the DND (Dept of National Definse) manual on this. Shows a lot of detail. The FN collector has never seen a better one. Would not put a price on it however. Any info appreciated.

[browningautorifle]

This is what I was implying. If he wouldn't put a price on it you can bet it's worth plenty. The only thing about selling it on line is IF you are in Canada, any part of a full auto IS the full auto. The same laws and penalties supposedly apply. This would mean you COULD market it at a gun show. Probably get away with it because the only people who would know would be people who would be interested. Price it in the hundreds and within a short time you will be able to conclude what it's actually worth. There are a few on this forum who are into that very thing. I'm surprised they haven't chimed in yet! If it were the sort of thing I was into these days, I already would have made an offer.

[Peter Laidler]

No gas block............ Surely that means no gas port either. Un threaded too means unless the buyer has access to thread start indexing, then he's going to struggle fitting it to his needy L2! We had these rifles in Australia, brand new and they weren't exactly sniper spec accurate by any means....... Sorry to be a bit downbeat but BAR is saying how it is

[stencollector]

Attaching the word "sniper" to anything on a C2A1 is just an ebay trick....they were just too light on the front end to command any accuracy, especialy on auto.

There is still the odd guy in Canada who would be interested in a C2 barrel. I would suggest from $250 to 400 for the price. Remember that a simple barrel blank starts at $200 up here. I bought a complete Cdn Arsenals factory C2A1 in very nice condition a few years back, and paid $1800 for it. While the Canadian stuff goes for a premium up here, I would suggest it is worth more in the US if it could be exported to there as parts.

The only thing about selling it on line is IF you are in Canada, any part of a full auto IS the full auto. The same laws and penalties supposedly apply

Not sure where you got that rule from. There are rules controlling importing parts exclusively for full autos, but there are converted (semi) auto C2s out there, so any exclusions won't apply.

[browningautorifle]

This is why the pic is worth a thousand words. If there's no threaded shank then that's a problem. If it's parkerized then it's finished. Even if it was stolen from the manufacturing line, it was threaded before parkerizing. Isn't that correct Mr Laidler? I'm sure you've seen them, AND toured the Royal Enfield plant. Some of the original FN barrels were machined and sent forward without the gas block installed. That part is just a swage fit. Before you tell me I'm wrong, I've done it without special tools or machines. Then the cross pin installed and check your gas port allignment with the correct drill bit-I forget which size. Check headspace and install the correct locking block in the receiver. You could also get them ready to install. The front is threaded for the flash eliminator and you require the bushing, cross pin and locating washer for the bottom. The other minor parts are in your parts drawers. The "term" sniper was simply coined incorrectly and has nothing to do with this whole thing. It was never on Ebay to begin with as far as this conversation has gone. I was just suggesting it as the best way to get his payout for what I see as a possibly valuable item to the right buyer.

The rules for exporting and importing are too extreme for me so I don't get involved. I simply can't afford it. The rules about dealing automatic parts are in print in the Criminal Code of Canada and can be summoned and consumed by anyone who wishes. The barrel COULD be treated the same as a magazine that was un-blocked for sale or in your possesion.

Stencollector is probably bang on with his estimate of value. If it's ready to install, it will be much more atractive than a jobber.

[Peter Laidler]

Replacement barrels in service, including our L2's were complete with the gas block press fitted onto the barrel, then drilled and reamed for the taper pin then drilled down through the gas block so that the gas port was perfectly aligned. The breeching thread was aligned and parkerised. If the breeching-up thread isn't cut, you could find yourself with a rifle that's impossible to CHS with the locking shoulders available. The gas block was never available as a separate part. New factory barrels (we had Lithgow and Enfield when I was in Australia) came as a complete assembly.

Of course, everyone forgot to assemble the ring, retaining handguards the first time they breeched up but after a few it was second nature. I think I've said this before, but on active service, the L1A1 rings would rust away at the bottom where the gunge would collect between the ring and the handguard. The plywood ones were the worst offenders.... In those cases we'd cut the old ring off and snip the new ring with a pair of pliers across the thinner gas tube clearance section. Then wiggle it on and braze up the cut. That's because up Country, we didn't have breeching up kit so had to make and mend a bit

Where was I? Oh yes.... it wasn't a problem with the muzzle thread of course as we just hand-tightened underturned the eliminator onto the most convenient flash eliminator washer (I think it was 8 degrees....) and tightened up..., aligned the slot, inserted key and pin and that was it.

Gone off the subject a bit but that's how it was for real