Shooting the .303 Ross - ammunition advice?

[RangeRover]

I'm awaiting arrival of a Ross 1905 Mark II, and I intend to shoot it.

Given the scarcity of milsurp .303 (though I keep on looking), I'd like to hear what ammunition has worked best for other Ross shooters. Commercial? Reloads only? Jacketed or cast?

I've got some Win Super X for my other .303s and I do intend to reload for this rifle if at all possible.

Thanks, and happy new year.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Rossguy]

You've just told us "Ross Mk II" and no more.....Which Ross Mk II?
If it's an original no-star,one-star or with a Mk III sight: don't shoot it!
If it's either a Military or Commercial Mk II** with a great bore: handloads.
If it's either a Mk II 3*, 4* or 5*, it's most likely almost smoothbore- use up your surplus military stuff-

[37patt]

I have shot my Mk II* several times with surplus ammo (1940's Canadian stuff) and apart from blowing the shoulders of the casings out due to the large chamber I have had no problems.

[browningautorifle]

I had a Ross some twenty years ago and without concerning myself over which make or mark it was I shot reloads without incident. I kept them reasonable for reduced recoil and didn't even suffer separated cases like the other 303 service rifles.

[Rowdy]

Despite my Mk.II (3* I think) having a very worn overall appearance, the bore appears to be very good and there are no LC markings on the barrel.
I have been a little reluctant to shoot it having read about the 30cal bore but it must have been designed to shoot 303 and headspaces OK so I have determined to have a go with my standard loads someday.

[oldpaul]

I have been the happy owner of a MkII 5* for over thirty years and have fired thousands of rounds of everything from military surplus to handloads and commercial bought. The bore still slugs out to .3105" and I get substantially better case life than I get with my SMLE, possiby due to the front locking lugs on the Ross. As with any 100+ year old rifle it is prudent to check its soundness before shooting of course. Rowdy, nice history on your stock.
Tom in beautiful Washington State

[RangeRover]

Thanks for all the responses. I don't have the rifle yet, but based on s/n (BU suffix) and physical characteristics it is a 5*, although the butt stock appears devoid of any stars at all. A closer look when it arrives might solve (or deepen) the mystery.

The previous owner did run some rounds through it before I bought it and I hope to get the measurements from his fired brass to help me assess the size of the chamber. The rifle bears no enlarged chamber markings, for what that's worth.

Is the concern about the no star, one-star or the Mk III sight versions based on rarity and value or on the fact that later variations were stronger/safer (or both)?

You've just told us "Ross Mk II" and no more.....Which Ross Mk II?
If it's an original no-star,one-star or with a Mk III sight: don't shoot it!
If it's either a Military or Commercial Mk II** with a great bore: handloads.
If it's either a Mk II 3*, 4* or 5*, it's most likely almost smoothbore- use up your surplus military stuff-

[Jay in CA]

I'm awaiting arrival of a Ross 1905 Mark II, and I intend to shoot it.
Given the scarcity of milsurp .303 (though I keep on looking), I'd like to hear what ammunition has worked best for other Ross shooters. Commercial? Reloads only? Jacketed or cast?
I've got some Win Super X for my other .303s and I do intend to reload for this rifle if at all possible.
Thanks, and happy new year.

I have several Ross rifles. The .280 shoots great with reloads and can be downloaded a bit. My question is about the .303 military version, where I have shot reloads and factory Greek. But given the scarcity of milsurp ammo, I want to reload. My rifle has a large chamber. The cases come out with necks 10 thou or so too large to even enter a resizing die. How have people dealt with this problem? Have you gotten RCBS to make special dies? Does it take two resizing passes to get the necks down to .311? Other solutions or suggestions.
Thanks, Jay in CA

[us019255]

"...fired brass to help me assess the size of the chamber...."

Better than that purchase some Cerrosafe from Brownells or others and make and mike a chamber cast. Easy to do and then you will know for sure.

[smellie]

I am shooting Rosses and Lee-Enfields and handloading for both.

My test load for the SMLE is Defence Industries brass, whatever LR primer I have in stock (Winchester or CCI), a Sierra 180 hunting bullet (flat-based, in deference to the SMLE's Enfield rifling, of course) and about 37 grains of IMR-4895 powder. I find that, after testing, most SMLEs will want something between this and 38 grains of the same powder. Bullets are seated to the OAL of a Mark VII Ball round, which is what I use to adjust my seater. This crowds the rifling just a bit because of the differing ogive of the Sierra bullet, but the rifles seem to like it.

Chronographed MV with this loading is right on 2250 with the SMLE, 2335 with a full-military Ross in good shape. Those 5 extra inches DO help: the old-timers who said a Ross 'shot harder' than the SMLE were right.

With this load, off the sandbags, I can get 1 inch with a completely-original NRF 1918 SMLE, half an inch with a 1918 Lithgow and anything from overlapping holes to 5/16" with the Ross.

These all are called 2-round groups starting with a cold barrel, shots spaced by about 1 minute. A sighting-shot may be fired, but at LEAST a 5-minute wait before shooting your group. This should set you up for hunting or sniping: neither man nor beast is going to hang around long after the first one, so no point in warming your bore. This will tell you what the rifle is CAPABLE of doing; in a field situation, the remainder is up to you.

The British found through extensive experimentation that the LE always shot its best with a .312" bullet and this has shown, generally, to be true also of the Ross.

These are NOT heavy loads, nor are they high-pressure. Recoil is moderate, perceptibly less than Ball ammo.

As to the swelled cases from the really early Ross, I have its spiritual twin, built in 1906. For this one, I neck-size only, using a .308 Winchester die, chamfer the inside of the case-mouth to ease the seating of the new bullet. You could find that the cases will resize easier if you chamfer the OUTSIDES of the mouths.

As to brass life, I have no idea with the Ross. I have a box here of 1942 DI brass which has been through my HMS Canada rifle 15 times to date; it still does not require trimming and there are NO signs of separation. It just keeps going.... and going..... and going...... you know the rest!

I do hope this is of some help.