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    F code on FSB true or not?

    My question is. I have been pondering changing the front sight on my AR15A2 to one with a bayo lug. I found one for 15$ shipped, like new has the ( 0,3) code but has an additional F code on left side. Mine has ( N then an O with RI inside of it and then the number 3) no F code. Internet material tells me this.


    Rifle length - either FSB works with any upper/sight combination
    Mid Length - either FSB works with any upper/sight combination. (An "F" will give you more room for adjusting the POI lower.)
    Carbine - A "F" will work with any upper/sight combination. A non "F" will work with A1/A2 uppers. On flat tops a non "F" will work with the Bushmaster carry handle which is lower. Sometimes it will work with a Colt carry handle or BUIS, but not always. In those cases that it doesn't you will need a taller sight post.

    I also under stand that the F is .040 taller! Is this or any of this info true and will it mess my point of aim up that i can not correct it. Any help would be appreciated. Jeff B
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    The 0.040" taller bit is true. Changing out sight blocks is best avoided if possible! The set-screw solution is no no substitute for taper pins if bayonet use is contemplated. (That just seems ludicrous anyway!!!) Its just not an easy job to do right. Cobble if you want, but beware the Bubba Factor!

    ETA: The pin removal part is the EASY bit. Putting new taper pins in correctly whilst maintaining proper sight position rotationally is the horror! I've done it for myself and have about decided that, generally speaking, its all around better to just buy a new barrel or live w/ the old. Been thinking of welding a lug to a lugless sjght block, but that's it. (Still gotta get the sight block off the barrel, though...)
    Last edited by jmoore; 01-23-2010 at 08:43 PM.

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    JMOORE thanks for the heads up on this matter but I'm still not scared. Is there a better matching Colt code for my usage. Lets say I dont want the "F" code. What codes denote colt manufacture. This guy who has the FSB has many. I can opt out of the "F" code its not to late to have him rummage through and pick another code. Or will the "F" code work? I have a sporter target model, what code would be correct for this rifle. Thanks Jeff B

    A bayonet is a necessary Item for every battle rifle. They have been there from the beginning. Shotguns too. It is the liberals that decided to cut it off. Guess it makes it to scary for them.

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    look and see

    Spent most of my night last night searching the net for answers and I like opinions they give you more to go on, to form a logical decision. Here is what I found two links to web sights discussing the matter in depth.

    1. A2 upper with F marked FSB? - AR15.COM

    2. http://www.gun-forums.com/want-buy-a...st-t1369.html?

    I think I'm finally satisfied........
    Jeff B

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    "Molon" (AR15,com) seems to be a reliable fellow, from what I've seen. There is good info on that site- IF you can find it! I take a peek from time to time, but it amazing how often they thrash the same stuff over and over; it makes me tired.

    Near as I can tell, any of the forged FSBs ought to be OK, unlike many AR parts, I haven't seen any junk ones.- But I tend to buy from only a few vendors, all of which have excellent reputations. (Of the lot, Brownell's seems to sell the most questionable grade stuff, its not misrepresented, just cheaper.) I learned about "bargains" from my father; mostly that they generally AREN'T!
    Last edited by jmoore; 01-25-2010 at 02:38 AM.

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    Jmoore, Sound like your father gave you good advise. Sounds like something my father would say ( if it's to good to be true it probably is). I have a vast collection of firearms with wood this is only my second that wears plastic. Both are AR's. The trouble I'm having is bad info. That is why I come to this site to find the good stuff. I have used John Beards advise on 03's. But AR's have been so mass produced by some, quite honestly ****ty companies. I certainly would not want to use there parts. I like the Colts. They may be over priced and they may have made some bad decisions over the yrs. but there not some fly by night company. So when looking for parts for this thing I will be sure to use a Colt part. I have restored many WWII rifles, some have taken a couple years to find the right part for that particular weapon. In the end I would say patience + persistence = PERFECTION & knowledge is power. But you cant know it all and the internet is surely a source of bad info you really need to weed through the junk. Thanks for your time and advice on my many Posts.
    Jeff B

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    If its a Colt rifle you have, then you might want to contact these folk:

    Specialized Armament Warehouse


    However!:

    http://www.specializedarmament.com/c..._issue_98.html


    I don't know if they'll play "Swap the FSB" or not, but they don't build or sell substandard equipment.
    Just remember, if you call, the time it takes talking to you is usually time taken away from actually getting work done.
    Last edited by jmoore; 01-26-2010 at 03:26 AM.

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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by jmoore View Post
    If its a Colt rifle you have, then you might want to contact these folk:

    Specialized Armament Warehouse


    However!:

    http://www.specializedarmament.com/c..._issue_98.html


    I don't know if they'll play "Swap the FSB" or not, but they don't build or sell substandard equipment.
    Just remember, if you call, the time it takes talking to you is usually time taken away from actually getting work done.

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    Thumbs up

    Try m4carbine ( dot ) net -- lots of solid info and a much better fact to drivel ratio than tos.

    ETA: Molon posts there as well.
    Last edited by campperrykid; 03-15-2010 at 08:41 AM.

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