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The lead screw locking nuts are the black 'collars' with slots in them. These lock the lead screw - which is the shaft in the middle.
Don't waste your time buying the tools. Anyone that is contemplating this No4T replica is MORE than capable of making a set of the tools by copying the simple sketches in the back of the telescope book. Have fun!
Last edited by Peter Laidler; 06-18-2012 at 07:46 AM.
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06-18-2012 03:49 AM
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Peter
Had one built "professionally".
Piece of junk.
The specialist had obviously never read the threads, even though he claimed he had.
Now wiser and a bit poorer.
There is one less Enfield in the world. Scrapped the rifle as the pads were misaligned.
Have a replacement on the way and it will be built following your process, hopefully with a bit of help from Trooper554877.
Cheers
Paul
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Originally Posted by
paulseamus
Peter
Had one built "professionally".
Piece of junk.
The specialist had obviously never read the threads, even though he claimed he had.
Now wiser and a bit poorer.
There is one less Enfield in the world. Scrapped the rifle as the pads were misaligned.
Have a replacement on the way and it will be built following your process, hopefully with a bit of help from Trooper554877.
Cheers
Paul
when do we start?!!
Cheers
Ned
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Well you gents have to count me in too....i can "oooh and ahhhh" at appropriate times, might even have a No4 I can have some pads attached to too.
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I've been thinking about the use of a modern scope.
Collaminating it will not be the same as the original but I wonder if finding the centre of the adjustments ( count the number of clicks end to end and halve it ) would do the same thing? I'd hate to just put one together and find out I had done it with one click of adjustment left in the scope Obviously wouldn't need the V blocks if this is the case.
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Sorry to rain on your parade Xa, but the only way to collimate a telescope with either a wire moving or image moving scope is to rotate it in vee blocks XA! That is the ONLY way to tell whether the point of the grat is in the centre of the optical axis of the telescope. Unless anyone can tell me of another way that I haven't heard of! I know what others preach, but the point of the grat is the only feature of the telescope that you have to concern yourself with
Only THEN can you get the optical axis of the telescope to align with the axis of the bore of the rifle
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I tried adjusting it about and it didn't appear to do a lot. Unless by chance the scope I was using was already centred.
I also think using the collaminating technique is easier than having to count heaps of clicks !
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XA Coupe
Try setting up the V blocks that Peter describes in Part 1.
Even a man on "Julia's payroll" can cough up for a cheap nylon cutting board from Coles.
(My tip is buy the Missus a new cutting board and chop up the old one.)
Cheap nylon cutting board, small off-cut of ply and four screws is all you need. I put mine together in about 10 minutes. Whilst its not a work of art, it sure does the job. And the "cutting board" v blocks don't mark the scope.
Adjust and rotate, adjust to minimse the error and rotate again. Repeat a few times and then you will truely know how many clicks for your scope to be centered.
Then if you set the pads and mount up correctly you may only need to adjust a few clicks to zero the rifle.
Just my 5 cents worth.
Paul
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I just turfed a couple of cutting boards too dammit ... a good idea paul. I might do it for the exercise as I have no no4 303 and will most likely be selling the no4 7.62 soon. At least I will have a collaminated scope and more importantly, have done it once and ironed out any kinks in the process.
Julia's payroll... used to be a Bob Hawke scholarship. Times and the names of the PM may have changed but not the bloody party it seems.
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Ah, yes......., when you move the grat in a moving image telescope, it doesn't look like like the grat is moving, because it's NOT. It is the actual image that is moving. So to do it you NEED vee blocks and a DAP to view. Difficult to explain but........... I'd get a cheapo No32!
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