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  1. #1
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    Ross threads

    I recently got a badly bubba'd M10 Ross. I have another good M10 and M5 Ross. I am wondering if anyone knows what kind or threads are on a Ross M10 barrel? I think this one is a candidate for a rebarrel job.
    Thanks,
    Col.P.
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Quick measurements: Shank is 1.125" diameter, 0.732" long, 12 square threads per inch. There is a counterbore, plus an extractor cut on the breech face. There are reports of 1910 Rosses being rebarrelled for a variety of cartridges. The action is strong, and can handle long cartridges, but magazine feed is a concern.
    FWIW, in my experience Ross barrels are timed, so an original barrel with a decent bore could be installed without too much hassle.
    Last edited by tiriaq; 10-19-2006 at 06:02 PM.

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    On the subject of the Ross, since it seems as though lots of you are from the 'Great White North'....Is there any availability of parts in Canadaicon?
    I have a MkII that had been attacked by bubba & would eventually like to
    bring it back to military trim.

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    Hmm... tough order. Small parts perhaps, but wood is unobtainium I think. I'm not a Ross man though, so perhaps someone else will chime in.
    Союз нерушимый республик свободных Сплотила навеки Великая Русь. Да здравствует созданный волей народов Единый, могучий Советский Союз!

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    Unaltered stocks are extremely difficult to obtain. Mk. II nosecaps seem to be more commonly encountered than those for Mk. IIIs. The few Mk. III nosecaps I've seen are the later forged type. I've never seen a spare stamped Mk. III nosecap.
    If your Mk. II has been cut in front of the middle band, it is a straightforeward restoration to do a splice under the band, and "stretch" the forend. Mk. IIs seem to have been stocked with European walnut, and its lighter and sometimes finer grained than North American.
    You're in the US, I take it. Is your Ross a Mk. II*** with US property marks?
    Further to restoring a stock: Ideally, the less done to the original stock, the better. Before starting the job, search for a piece of wood that will match the original stock as much as possible. Cut the new wood to the appropriate size, leaving it square. Inlet the barrel channel. Fit the nosecap. You will have to remove the front sight base to install the nosecap. Shape the new wood until the middle band will slide along it. Cut the original stock just inside the middle band. Cut the new wood to final length. Drill the original stock, and the new wood for a couple of dowels. Check the assembly. Make sure contours are correct, length is correct. See if a bayonet can be mounted; this will confirm correct length. Now, start staining, oiling, shellacing, varnishing, as necessary, to match the colour of the original stock as closely as possible. Your wood and finish are new; the original is close to 100 years old. You will likely have to experiment, perhaps add nicks and dents. Only when you are satisfied should you glue the new wood in place. Apply some wax to the barrel, band and screws, so the glue will not adhere. Don't expect that it will be impossible to detect that the forend has been spliced, but try for the best job. If the job turns out to be a disaster, you can always cut off the new wood, and replace the forend tip that you trimmed off. The rifle will not be worse off than it was before you started.
    Last edited by tiriaq; 10-20-2006 at 07:07 PM.

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    The stock is shot as far as a restoration goes. I would need that along with a nosecap, buttplate & front sight hood with screws. I think everything else is there.
    Oops almost forgot a rear sling swivel.

    I can't tell you if it's a Mk II*** or not. the only markings I can see (short of removing it from the stock) are "Ross Rifle Co.Quebec. Canadaicon. 1905" on the LH receiver rail
    Under the rear handguard on the barrel shank is what looks like Brit proofs...crossed flags, on top of the crossing point of the flags are a crown, a D to the left of the crossing point, a C to the right & a 2P directly under the crossing point. Just aft of that marking is a Crown over "I" over "Q".

    Thats really all I can find.without taking the wood off. (Blueing looks real good under the rear handguard !!)
    Last edited by New Philly Sports; 10-20-2006 at 11:35 PM.

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    That's a Mk.II***. Note how the handguard notches down into the forend. I have seen one II*** stock on eBay in the past two years. Someone in Virginia broke what seemed to be a decent rifle for the parts; was selling everything but the receiver. You might want to keep your eyes open for a rifle with a better stock, but cut barrrel, and try to make up a composite specimen.
    Front sight hoods have been reproduced, if an original can't be found.
    On the CGN board, contact "wheaty". He has a cache of odds and ends of Rossbits.

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    pardon my ignorance but what is the CGN board?

    Thanks for the tip.

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    Thanks mate!

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