Painting Enfield parts

[Black Lab]

I am restoring a British #4 mk1 and I have finally found the top and center barrel band. Problem is the finish is badly worn. I remember hearing about a spray paint that is close to the suncorite finish the rifle has. I don;t remember the name, something like DuraCoat. Anyone know Jack

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[Peter Laidler]

Send the bits to BDL, together with the rst and have it done properly.....

[JBS]

I see you are in Canada, and BDL is in South Carolina. BDL is first class but if moving your rifle across the border is to much paperwork and money I have found Aluma Hyde II works very well. I use the semi gloss black. You can see a restored Lend Lease ( it’s the dark LE) in my photo gallery. No4 MkI Recovery / Refurbish - Military Surplus Collectors Forums

BROWNELLS : ALUMA-HYDE II - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

[Edward Horton]

I see you are in Canada, and BDL is in South Carolina. BDL is first class but if moving your rifle across the border is to much paperwork and money I have found Aluma Hyde II works very well. I use the semi gloss black. You can see a restored Lend Lease ( it’s the dark LE) in my photo gallery. No4 MkI Recovery / Refurbish - Military Surplus Collectors Forums

BROWNELLS : ALUMA-HYDE II - World's Largest Supplier of Firearm Accessories, Gun Parts and Gunsmithing Tools

Back to square one...............read the fine print

Aluma-Hyde II cannot ship outside Continental United States. Ship U.S.Ground only within U.S.

[madcratebuilder]

I know you guys well laugh at me but for bands and some small parts I use a ceramic header paint then bake it the BBQ at 250* for several hours.

[Black Lab]

I know you guys well laugh at me but for bands and some small parts I use a ceramic header paint then bake it the BBQ at 250* for several hours.

Now that sounds interesting. It's just a couple barrel bands. The waiting for parts etc. that's driving me If it doesn't work, I can just strip it and try the next on the list. madcratebuilder, would you have any close up pictures ??? Jack PS. If it look's anything like the #4 mk1 Recovery of JBS's rifle I would be happy !!!

[madcratebuilder]

I'll see what I can do on the photo. I'm currently cleaning up a 43 faz that looks like it was dipped in varnish while it still had a pound of cosmoline on it. This rifle has the nastiest, hardest build up of crud I have ever dealt with. Carb cleaner does not touch it, nor does any other chemical I have on the bench. I have to take a small stainless wire wheel to it in the nooks and cranies. What I'm getting to is I used some cold blue on a few small parts and it came out just like the oil black finish. Warmed the clean parts to about 120* and used Birchwood Casey perma blue paste. I'm going to do a front band today and I well post my results.

[jmoore]

Only drama: The B.C. cold blue isn't very stable, in a few years, or months, it'll fade to grey or worse. Plus, it SMELLS bad! The Brownell's stuff (not the 44/40, the other one) is much more durable and doesn't smell. It's harder to make pretty, but, in the end it's far better (as far as cold blues go).

[madcratebuilder]

Only drama: The B.C. cold blue isn't very stable, in a few years, or months, it'll fade to grey or worse. Plus, it SMELLS bad! The Brownell's stuff (not the 44/40, the other one) is much more durable and doesn't smell. It's harder to make pretty, but, in the end it's far better (as far as cold blues go).

I agree on the liquid BC cold blue but I have had good luck with the paste cold blue.

The liquid stuff you can rub off with your fingers, the paste seems to penetrate deeper in the metal and gives a nice black finish. The paste holds up well on my black powder revolvers, that's a harsh environment.

[jmoore]

About the only time I'll use ANY of it is after exposing bare metal during a repair, and only if it's a small area. Otherwise, i'll leave stuff be- honestly worn finish just adds to the charm.