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Thread: Bolt doesn't close on 'go' gage...

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  1. #1
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    Bolt doesn't close on 'go' gage...

    I posted a while back some pictures of a 1.3k serial springfield (more pictures below if you are interested). I took it to a gunsmith today to check the headspace and the bolt would not close on a 'go' gage. Since this rifle has an early (I believe someone said 1912 bolt) should I replace the whole bolt assembly and hope that this changes the headspace, or is that moronic? I can get it reamed for $20.

    Thanks for any replies.

    http://www.atarian-alps.com/+temp/springfield/index.htm
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    What are the markings on your bolt? Bottom, side of handle, and top, bottom or side of safety lug.

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    Legacy Member Mike D's Avatar
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    It wouldn't hurt to check another bolt. A3 bolts are cheap. But, an old bolt would usually give you excessive headspace. If your barrel is new, it might not have been finish reamed. Make sure barrel has been indexed properly.

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    put the gage down, remove the fire control from the bolt, and try a live factory round...if it wont close, it needs finish reamed.
    if it closes easy....re assemble..and shoot the thing...
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
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    See this thread..........

    A link to the sellers auction is in it. He pulled the auction because of the headspace issue. (Thanks for being honest in your dealings!)

    http://www.jouster.com/forums/showth...nother-project

    FWIW,

    Emri

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    Correct - I cancelled the auction because I don't want someone to think I was trying to rip them off. It probably would have come back anyway if someone bothered to check it with a 'go' gage. I think I'll try the new bolt road first - when I first got the rifle I posted some pictures here and someone commented that the early bolts are not very highly though of. At least complete new WW2 era bolts are cheap!

    Oh - the only marking I can see on the bolt is the letter 'J'. Springfield didn't stamp the heck out of these things like the Germans did. Or even worse, the Britishicon.
    Last edited by Atarian; 07-24-2010 at 01:16 AM.

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    If the J is on the bottom of the safety lug, then the bolt is from 1910 according to Vi Shooter's web site.

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    Legacy Member ut1seabee's Avatar
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    Emri, You're right about this fellows honesty.Not only did he cancel the auction,he contacted all bidders involved making them aware of this development. This is an unusual situation which
    in light of many instances,where items are offered for great amounts of money with 3 or 4 photos, no inspection period and "as is" sales.Atarian is indeed to be commended and I hope in the future we see more sellers holding to this standard.

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    Hi Folks:

    Well, so much for honesty. I got a rather unfriendly e-mail from the high bidder who claimed that I pulled the auction (two days early - don't they usually go up at the end?) because the bid price was too low. He says he will post negative feedback because I ended the auction early if I don't sell him the rifle. In between ending the auction and the first e-mail from him (have date stamped receipt) I ordered a complete bolt, so I'd really like to try to get the rifle fixed before selling it. At this point I don't know what to do - keep and fix, or sell broken. His 'tude has really turned me off at this point.

    I guess I should have just played dumb about the headspace!
    Last edited by Atarian; 07-24-2010 at 10:04 PM. Reason: typos - my nemesis

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    if you ended the auction. he has no way of leaving a feedback, and no legal way of do anything...tell him to get bent, and block him from bidding on your auctions./.
    also , email me his GB ID, so i can block him from bidding on any of my stuff..
    if you like, contact me, ill give you a rate to fix the headpace, and testfire the rifle...then you can sell it without any issue..
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
    molinenorski@msn.com
    720-841-1399 during normal bus, hours.

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