M1Carbine 'Bring Back' Underwood barrel 12-43

[BriWac]

Hello, I am a new member from the Pittsburgh, PA area. I own a M1 carbine 'Bring Back' that my father brought back after fighting in the Bulge and other theaters. We had 250 rounds he brought back too, that I shot already unfortunately, and it has an Underwood barrel stamped 12-43 and a STD. Prod. Receiver also the cross cannon stamp on the butt and a small 'P' stamped on the top middle of the barrel. How can I find out if this is an original, a Gov. rebuilt? Did they use different company parts when they built the originals? Where else do I look for markings? It does not look like it ever had a bayonet lug, which to me helps verify it was not a gov. rebuilt modified on most after WWII. It has only 2 rivets holding the hand stock and top wooden part together not four. I was told that is a good sign too. It has the slide safety and flip up sights also. I would like to know what I have and what it is worth. My son hit a plastic gallon milk bottle right under the lid at 100 yards, though he was trying for the cap. So it shoots well still. Thanks and I hope to hear from some of you on this. Brian

Information

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[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

A few pictures would help. Both sides of the stock, close up of the sling well and marking on the right side. Receiver with serial number, trigger housing group out of the stock to see parts. Have you written down the markings on the parts? Stuff like that.

Value is condition, condition, condition. But you can never put a value on a gun your father used in the war. If it was my Dad's, I would never sell it. It would be handed down to the milk bottle assassin. And hopefully to his heir later on.

[Tired Retired]

Brian,

First welcome to the forum. You came to the right place to get accurate answers about everything you ever wanted to know.

Probably the best way to get the guys to help you identify the parts is to post some pictures. The more detailed about the small parts the better. Unfortunately, I do not have my reference materials with me so I am hesitant to answer some of your questions. The basic stuff is easy off of memory. You have an Standard Products receiver. They were one of 10 different manufacturers of the M-1 carbine in WWII. There were literally hundreds of subcontractors who produced parts for the 10 prime producers - and 99% of these small parts have coded marks to identify who produced it. All USGI carbine receivers were produced between late 1942 and mid-1945. If you post the serial number (XX out the last two digits) and the guys can probably tell you the month and year your carbine was made. That would help determine if the barrel you have is original to that carbine receiver. I seem to remember that SP did use Underwood barrels since they got barrels through the Free barrel Program (thats another long story). The "P" in the middle of the barrel is a proof mark when the barrel was proof fired. Assuming that your carbine is from 1943, it would not have had a bayonet lug at time of manufacture. Also the two-rivet hand guard is also time-period correct. When a carbine was rebuilt at an arsenal, its stock was marked with a code. But field repairs, rebuilds and changes happened all the time and were not marked. Like I said, pictures would help people help you figure out what exactly you have.

Oh, and thanks for taking your son shooting.

Again, welcome to the forum!

[mpd1978]

If you know for certain that your father brought it back directly after WW2 it is possibly in original condition. Pictures are a must if you want any good info on what you have. If it is in fact and original Standard Products M1 carbine that is unmessed with, you have a valuable heirloom that should be preserved for your children. Shooting it only risks loosing parts or breaking something. There are plenty of cheap and common guns to plink with. As for value, that depends on the pictures. But original carbines, especially a rarer one like a Standard Products, usually bring over $2k.

[BriWac]

Tired Retired, Thanks. Okay, I have pics at home that have great quality at close ups. Also why (xx) out the last two digits of the S/N?
If you tell me how to take it apart to take pictures I will get as many as you all need. I know how to get the sling ring of the barrel by pushing the spring and sliding it off and that should allow me to get the hand grip off. Or... should I take it to a gun smith and do it there to be safe?
Can you tell me where to look for the other markings that I did not mention? I may not ever get rid of it because of sentimental reasons but I also need to get my son a graduation present for college, he is now in Law school. A soprano sax he needs starts about $3,500!!! So, he will have the last say on if he wants to keep the gun.
I had some original ammo, over 250 rounds when I had the gun handed to me but did not think of saving any and shot all of it. It was in government issued cardboard boxes and that's all I remember. They were kept in my grandfather's home for years. My father was a Staff Sergeant, received two purple hearts and metals for campaigns he was in. He was sent over on the Queen Mary. I am not sure of much else but plan to ask him this week. His memory is starting to go so I hope he remembers.

[BriWac]

How do I tell what stock does it have? Type II high wood, etc?
And where would any rebuild stamps on the stock be located and what would they look like?

Thanks all again.
BriWac

[Denny779]

Welcome to forum.
Here are a couple links.
One shows how to take down the gun and the other shows the difference between "High" and "Low" wood stocks.
HTH
High Wood/ Low Wood - CMP Forums
Collecting and Shooting the U.S. M1 .30 Caliber Carbine - Disassembly and Reassembly

[firstflabn]

Great post; thanks for the info. I found the following link useful when I first discovered the M1 Carbine. If you're reasonably adept mechanically, you'll be fine; just think each step through. The link covers the basic disassembly to the level a GI in the field might undertake. This level won't let you see all the parts, but it's a good start to assess your understanding.

Not sure I'd advise a rookie on his own taking the trigger group apart, but the guy who did the disassembly instructions also did the trigger group disassembly/reassembly on another page. Bolt disassembly definitely should be done with a special tool.

In reassembly just be careful to hook the tab on the rear of the receiver into the recoil plate (the bracket attached to the stock by a single, almost vertical bolt) without forcing it. If you do it correctly, the barrel should drop into the channel at the front of the stock to within an inch - ideally between 1/8" to 1/4". Just don't force it; give it a wiggle and it will find its proper spot.
http://sailorcurt.blogspot.com/2007/...sassembly.html

Here's a link to the the Carbine Club's data sheet for recording parts info. It looks complicated, but it might help you see small differences in different revisions to the parts.
http://carbineclub.com/DataSheet_7_01_08a.pdf

If available could you tell us your father's unit and whether he went overseas with the unit or as a replacement?

[Badger]

A couple of useful "sticky" posts at the top of the forum ....

FM23-7 Basic Field Manual for .30 Calibre M1 Carbine

Cal .30 M1 Carbine (1943 WWII U.S. Training Film)

Hope they help you understand more about the old girl ...

Regards,
Badger

[BriWac]

Thanks All!
I do not know the unit and when he was shipped over at this moment but hope to be able to get my hands on his service records and such soon. He told a story when I was younger of his unit being in a movie, filmed walking way in the distance. I will see if he can recall that bit of flklore for me.
And I thought I just needed to take the trigger assembly out of the stock and look for markings not disasemble it. I will take it to a knowlegdeable gun smith for that if I need to go that route. I will look at hese links a get back herre with updated information and some close up oictures and pictures of the whole gun.
Another thing... I did apply teak oil to the wood to help preserve it. I did not sand or alter the wood in anyway. Will this pose a problem on value if I decide to sell?
Do any of you live near the Pittsburgh PA area? Someone who knows their way around this gun that could help out? Dosen't hurt to ask.
Thanks again.
BriWac