Type 99 Bolt Assembly

[jmoore]

Hmmm, OK, Tkaxman, have you removed the bolt stop assembly? No need going further until this is done.

The firing pin extention is the part that would normally engage the sear. It's pictured in Mr. Chadwick's first two photos in his latest post.

In your case, however, it's not in it's usual location, if I'm correct in the misassembly. It was inserted in a convoluted way so that it ended up in the left hand bolt raceway. It will be exposed to view when you remove the bolt stop assembly.

If it's there, then you must press it to the rear as if you are cocking it. Whilst doing so, you must also attempt to rotate the safety. If the firing pin goes back too far, the safety still won't turn. The proper position is about 2/3 to 3/4 of the firing pin's full travel. Don't worry about going back too far, just ease it forward and back until the safety is freed.

So, let's do this a little at a time.

#1 remove the bolt stop screw and pull the bolt stop assembly off the rifle.
#2 Verify that the firing pin is where I think it is by taking a photo into the bolt stop cutout area. We'll pause here for verification.

OK, gang, once I find my camera and find some spare time- getting a new roof this week also some plumbing dramas, AND really need a deer by the holidays- I'll do a photo spread on "How to lock up your Japanese rifle, maybe maybe unlock it."

[Patrick Chadwick]

In your case, however, it's not in it's usual location, if I'm correct in the misassembly. It was inserted in a convoluted way so that it ended up in the left hand bolt raceway.

I can confirm that.

f the firing pin goes back too far, the safety still won't turn. The proper position is about 2/3 to 3/4 of the firing pin's full travel.

Also confirmed. The pictures in my previous posting were going to be attempt to show the exact position where the interlock between the firing pin body is out of action and lets you rotate the safety cap in a way that is normally impossible. The first attachment shows the cap/firing pin body in an "impossible" position that can only be achieved if the assembly is given a slight twist in the critical position shown in the second pic. This in-between position ought to be impossible if the firing spring is intact. But I got so bogged down in complicated picture sequences that in the end it would not have helped Tkaxman, since this interaction can only be studied when the bolt is out, i.e after he has solved his problem. You put it better than I did, and he will just have to go by feel.

Patrick

[Tkaxman]

Thanks Patrick, but the lug on the safety knob prevents me from moving the bolt more than 1/8 inch or so. I have tried jiggling every which way, and still can't see how to get the safety know in the right position.
I read in another web forum that someone else had the same issue and they were able to force (or jump) the knob into the correct position, but that sounded a bit sketchy, and it was a dated entry.

[jmoore]

Bolt stays put! Don't worry about the bolt. It'll free up when the safety is freed. No undue force required.

You DO have the bolt release removed, yes? This can't be rectified until it's removed.

[Tkaxman]

No, that is the issue, I cannot release the bolt. The gun is in very good shape, so it is not frozen or rusted in any way. It has just been assembled incorrectly (years ago, on purpose, I assume). It has the original dust cover on it, so I can't see anything from the top. It is fairly perplexing, and I know it is just a matter of finding the "trick".
Sorry to seem clueless here, but I don't have much experience with old rifles.... I do own a few modern ones. It would help if you could post a picture, with a description of your proposed solution.
I really appreciate your help!
Tkaxman

[Tkaxman]

In addition to the above post, please see my pictures in post #19....thats where I'm stuck. I cannot move the safety knob to release the bolt.

[jmoore]

Not the bolt! The thingy on the left hand side of the action that swings out under spring tension. That's the bolt stop. It must be removed. Remove the screw at the top rear (Type 99 rifle) of the stop and pull it off. You can't go further until this is done.

---------- Post added at 12:49 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:45 AM ----------

Umm. Excuse, please. The screw to release the bolt stop is on the bottom rear. (LH side) Type 38 rifle!

[jmoore]

I was working with a T99. The screw on it is on the top.
I found my camera today. Maybe by this weekend I can post some photos. I'll use a Type 38 just to make sure there's no further confusion. But aside from the screw location, I can't think of any functional difference.

[jmoore]

Sorry that this had to drag on so long! It's either a five minute fix at worst w/ a T99 or about 20min. w/ a T38 due to the extra disassembly required to remove the screw. (I wonder if that's why it was turned on it's head in the newer model???)

[jmoore]

Solved a minor mystery of my own, today, whilst attempting to photo the Type 38 carbine chosen to replicate Tkaxman's set-up. For some reason I had left the ejector out of the rifle and didn't realize it. That would explain why the empties weren't getting out of the action last time I shot it. Stupid me! Anyway, it's not an issue as Tkaxman's ejector screw is out so I'll guess his is missing as well. Doesn't really matter, regardless.

Photos posted Friday or Saturday if things work out. Don't have a picture yet of the firing pin push back operation as it will take a more elaborate set-up yo shoot properly, but I think there's enough to work this out. Video would be ideal, but that's beyond my capabilities.