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Thread: No 32 Mk 3 scope adjustment

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    Legacy Member Reaper6's Avatar
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    No 32 Mk 3 scope adjustment

    How do you turn the drums on a mk 3 scope without changing the zero? I'm sure instructions are out there, I just can't seem to find them...
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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

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    Legacy Member newbieDAN's Avatar
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    Bit of an ambiguous question.

    You can zero the drums once you have zeroed the rifle, otherwise I'm not sure I understand the intent

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    The slipping scales on the periphery should move using finger pressure, but there's a raised boss on them that has an indentation for a bullet point to enhance turnng force, if required. Just hold the turret stationary by gripping the knurled portion with one hand whilst turning the scale to the desired position w/ the other hand. (If it hasn't been done in a while, they may stick- but don't force it!)

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    If I've read you right Reaper, the answer is 'it's simple...........'. This is because the 0 - 10 slipping scale is attached to the drum by friction. So when you turn the actual knurled thumbwheel part of the drum turret, the slipping scale rotates with it - because it's fixed to it by friction! If you want to move the slipping scale, then, as correctly described above, you hold the knurled thumbscrew part and slip the slipping scale. I should add that the slipping scale should be a lot tighter than 'finger pressure'. There is a poundage load rate that I forget now.

    There's a good little book out about these telescopes by 'a bloke wot writ it' a few years ago. I forget his name but BDLicon has them in stock!

  7. Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:

    MJ1

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    There's a good little book out about these telescopes by 'a bloke wot writ it' a few years ago. I forget his name but BDLicon has them in stock!
    Of course Reaper6, Peter is joking ...

    In addition to being a trained and highly experienced military Armourer, he has authored two excellent books about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and their No.32 scopes. They are titled "An Armourer's Perspective: .303 No.4(T) Sniper Rifle", which he co-authored with Ian Skennertonicon and his own dedicated work, "Telescope Sighting No.32".

    If you're really interested in some in-depth learning about the No.4(T) sniper rifles and the No.32 series of scopes, their history, evolution, repair and adjustments for shooting, we'd highly recommend those two books, which are pictured below.


    (Click PIC to Enlarge)

    Here's a pamphlet in the MKLicon that may be of interest as well ..

    1952 Instructional Pamphlet for No.4 Mk1(T) sniper rifle

    Regards,
    Doug

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    Legacy Member newcastle's Avatar
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    Similar question. I have my L1A1 zeroed (nearly ) at 100 yards - elevation perfect but it shoots 1 inch to the right OR 1 inch to the left at the next click of the windage, even if I rotate the sliding scale to say 5 when it's at zero it is still the actual clicks whihc go too far. is there any way of moving the clicking drum rather than the scale?

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    Advisory Panel Surpmil's Avatar
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    Could be your grat block is a little sticky in there and isn't moving freely, allowing the backlash in the leadscrew, which could well equate to a MOA, to make the movements inconsistent with the turning of the lead screw (and drum) The scale is totally irrelevant to the problem, unless it is so loose it is moving and giving you a false reading of your movement of the drum - if you're relying on that and not the feel of the clicks. How positive are the clicks?

    Of course that opinion might only be worth what it cost you!
    “There are invisible rulers who control the destinies of millions. It is not generally realized to what extent the words and actions of our most influential public men are dictated by shrewd persons operating behind the scenes.”

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    Much changes, much remains the same.

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    You need to make an internal adjustment by loosening the locking ring and turning the lead screw to line it up to your taste.

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    Thank you gents. I got it all zeroed in, the rifle to the scope, the sliding scales set, etc... Sure was easy once I knew how the scope worked!

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    Legacy Member newcastle's Avatar
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    Sorry brian wa sthat advice for my problem or the original poster's problem.
    the clicks on my drums are positive and very sharp. Should one click equal 1 1/2 - 2" at one hundred yards or shoudl one click = one inch at 100?

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