Ross 1910 bolt question

[halhunt]

On an impluse buy with gun shop gift certificate in hand and wanting another piece of Canadiana I recently purchased a Ross 1910 sporter. It's a sporterized miltary rifle, marked CRB on top of the receiver, barrel cut down to approx 25 inches, the bore looks OK, the metal is well used but the stock is smooth without a mark on it (?).

I've read that a certain amount of knowledge or if no knowledge caution should be exercized regarding the lock-up of the bolt. I've read info here and have some understanding what I should look for. The bolt goes all the way in and appears to turn counter clockwise in the receiver theads when it gets towards the furthest position foward. Also the bolt stop should be in the up position when firing. Any input is welcome regarding the bolt or other aspects of the rifle is welcome. Thank-you.

Information

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[smellie]

Bolt-stop positions are the same as for the 1903 Springfield.

UP is REPEAT: rounds feed from the magazine.

STRAIGHT OUT is REMOVE THE BOLT.

DOWN is SINGLE SHOT: the bolt is prevented from going backward far enough to strip a round from the magazine. This keeps the magazne filled and you now load the rifle by tossing individual rounds int the feedway and slapping the bolt closed.

If the bolt is assembled correctly, it CANNOT get out of whack by itself. Yes, the Mark III (Model of 1910) ROSS bolt CAN be made to chamber a round and fire it in an UNLOCKED condition, but it REQUIRES human manipulation to make the rifle do this. If the bolt is assembled properly and inserted into the rifle, it can NOT put itself out of adjustment: there are FOUR solid steel walls inside the bolt which prevent this and you would have to break THREE of them out in order to have a problem. I don't think this has EVER been done, but then, the rifle has only been on the market for 99 years now.

I am shooting the twin to your rifle, including rapid-fire, and have no problems with it at all. If you are really concerned about getting your face ripped off, use the "Rule of Thumb": with the bolt open, the rear of the locking-lugs should stand out from the front of the bolt-sleeve about an inch: the width of your thumb. The ONLY other position they can sit in (the dangerous position) is less than a QUARTER of that, so it is very obvious.

Get yourself a MANUAL and get Pervers Pepere's excellent article on the Ross Bolt; they are stickied at the top of the Index to this Forum and they are FREE.

If you have any more problems, come back on here.... or else PM me.... and we'll work through it.

Welcome to the Wonderful World of ROSS Rifles!
.

[Badger]

In case you decide you ever want to start taking the bolt itself apart, you might want to read and save this for future reference...

There's an outstanding article by "PerversPépère", on Ross M-10 Rifle Bolt Disassembly (click here) and the dangers of doing it incorrectly. It may be found under the Technical Articles for Milsurp Collectors and Re-loaders (click here) forum of the Milsurp Knowledge Libraries.

Regards,
Doug

[halhunt]

Thanks for the info.

[Echo Bravo]

It's really not that hard. The guide here is good and if you take your time and are careful, you'll have no problems.