L1A1 Problem

[nzl1a1collector]

Nice to see that L1A1 Kevin the Kiwi. Does it still have the original long gas cylinder, one piece firing pin and sharp edged cocking handle slide that would put two sharp cuts down the left side of your hand when you let the cocking handle go

The rifle was one of 10 sent to New Zealand as being a member of the Rifle Steering Committee (RSC) as examples of the new pattern 'Mark 2' L1A1 rifle. Incorporated a number of changes and improvements, including the following:

Latest dimensional alterations to the Barrel & Breech Block
2-Piece Firing Pin and new Spring
Modified Handguards (to accommodate the new Carrying Handle Retaining Screw)
Mk. 2 Gas Cylinder (Shortened)
Mk. 2 Carrying Handle Retaining Screw (Lengthened)
Mk. 2 Carrying handle
Mk. 2 Body Locking Catch
Mk. 2 Bold Holding Open Device
Mk. 2 Rifle Sling Loop
Mk. 2 Butt Stock
Other dimensional changes an alteration throughout in accordance with the RSC.

The rifles were kept with RNZEME as 'Control Rifles' till the L1A1 was withdrawn from service.

[tankhunter]

Skippy and Tankie............... A querie.......... I was thinking about the jammed in return spring nut. I seem to remember that if it did jam up tight, say rusted in (the salty water from the swamps up in Queensland used to get down the tube and rust the nut to the tube as I remember.....) If you use the 'appropriate amount of technical force' and the return spring unscrews from the TMH (the trigger mech. housing to you heathens and pagan savages still out there in the colonies and antipodes), then for some reason, the bloody tube is then jammed up in the butt. It'll rotate OK but isn't there a collar that wont allow it to be pulled back and out.

I have this nagging feeling in the back of my head somewhere.........

Pete, I dont remember that difficulty! I also have had the tubes unscrew & come out of the TMH. I dont remember NOT being able to extract the tube from any butts though? You will have to check a spare Rtn Spring Tube with a wood butt from your spares Mate!....Im sure you may have a few?....

[Peter Laidler]

Skippy and Tankie, you have answered my querie. It's just that had a niggling thought in the back of my mind thats all. I seem to remember that the external thread of the TMH end of the return spring tube was the same as the internal thread at the butt plate end of the tube. It was a metric pitch/thread form over a diameter which seemed typical of these foreigners! Anyway, all have a nice weekend!

What was the difference between the original and 'Mk2' type butt that you mention Kev the Kiwi? Was it the body locking catch or lever? I remember the original levers were changed as and when because they had sharp stepped dome at the top that could cut your thumb whereas the later production version just had a rounded dome and the later still ones had a punched-out rounded dome. I have to say, and the others'll bear me out on this, but I don't remember the designers and MAG's (the Maintenance Advisory Groups) giving health, safety and creature comforts a great deal of consideration. They did spend a bit of time correcting, red lining and blue pencilling every spelling and grammatical error I made when I upgraded the L2A3 Sterling EMER as a silly project for someone!

[Terrylee]

Still no luck in undoing the screw plug. I have made an appointment to visit my friendly gunsmith for next Saturday. Perhaps his equipment will work better than mine. Picture of patient and spares attached.

Attachment 18771

[nzl1a1collector]

Peter,

The original Mark 1 butt looked like the Australian Butt (and Canadian Mk 1) with the long comb on the top of the butt. This was modified (shortened) to reduce the chance of splitting. The butts have a ' 2 ' stamped on them as part of the markings.

The Mark 2 Body Locking Catch were the rounded type, no doubt changed not due to safety concerns but more likely it was cheaper to manufacture.

Really with the changes incorporated into the L1A1 rifle at this time it should of been renamed the L1A2, but that never happened. IF the lightweight rifle project managed to come into service it would of meant a new designation for sure. This project which was being worked on at the same time as the updates/upgrades for the rifle. The goal was to reduce the weight of the rifle as much as possible and to incorporate Aluminum replacement components such as the Top Cover and TMH. Although these weren't incorporated into Commonwealth production FN went on to produce lightweight rifles and components as production options.

[Peter Laidler]

Terry, maybe you're not being brutal enough............ In Australia ws had some really tight baxxxxxs where the sea/salt water had got in and rusted them during training for the Far East, up in the tidal mangrove swamp areas. We'd start the return spring tube nuts with the old 'BITS, stockbolt' (the old No4 stock bolt screwdriver) that was in our toolboxes. That, in the 'BRACE, Armourers' would turn anything.

In fact we used to use the BRACE, Armourers to turn the stubborn engines of Jumbo jets............ just joking, but yoyu get my drift!

[tankhunter]

Terry, as the butt is plastic. Why not leave is standing in a large Pot of Penitrating fluid? Then retry removing the screw after 24 hours.
I dont know what your stance is on the plastic furniture you have on the Rifle at present.
But plastic butts are readily available here in the UK. If your not too fussed about keeping this butt. WORST case secenario. Cut it off through the plastic CAREFULLY with a hacksaw!
I realise this sounds brutal, but if your not bothered, or wish to obtain a replacment butt. Then it cant be a problem, can it?
When removed, if needs be. Heat from a blowlamp could be played on the screw end of the return spring tube. This WILL definately break the corrosion between screw & tube & should effect removal.

[browningautorifle]

Tankie's right. At this point it doesn't matter about the plastic butt if it won't come off. You will definitely have some rust to deal with and that's the more important thing right now. To me it would be anyway!

[Peter Laidler]

If the plastic butt matters, I undertstand that BDL is kinee deep in them! Cheaper than a new return spring tube I guess.....

[Terrylee]

Thanks all for your input. Much appreciated. I obviously wish to preserve the nylon butt if possible since from where I live it would be rather inconvenient to replace it.

The penetrating oil sounds a good idea, but what worries me somewhat is that this rifle is absolutely immaculate inside with no trace of rust anywhere.

I have arranged to visit my gunsmith friend this Saturday. He has specialisd equipment and I'll take it from there with the penetrating oil as a definite option.