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    Insufficient Head Space?

    Hi,

    I've got a 1950 Long Branch I bought about 12 years ago; finally got around to cleaning it up and discovered it's difficult to chamber a factory round. The bolt will close on a Prvi Partisan round with a bit of force, and then it takes quite a bit of force to open the action (with an unfired round, haven't fired the gun yet).

    Its got a mismatched Long branch bolt with a #3 bolt head (.637), which over rotates (clocks? not sure which is the correct term) a bit. The right side of the extractor notch in the bolt head aligns with the left side of the bolt column. The bolt and bolt head appear to be in good shape with little wear, and since the action and barrel still had cosmolineicon in them I don't think its been fired since it was pieced together.

    In trying to figure this out I've come across a few posts that mention head space increasing by about .003 after a newly fitted bolt head has been fired a few times, and over rotation diminishing as the bolt and head adjust to one another.

    Does this sound about right? I could set the shoulder back on few once fired cases that came with my .303 dies and shoot a box to see if it settles in, or should I just get a shorter bolt head, like a .634 or so?

    Thanks for any advice,

    Jim
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    From an old re-post by Cantom of a few years ago ... not sure who the original author was, but I always thought it was an interesting post on the subject of head spacing for Enfields, which seems to be the most widely published and discussed content on the Internet ..

    Headspace on an Enfield is measured using Britishicon gauges: the minimum is supposed to be .064", which is the rim thickness of a military round, and .074", which therefore allowed .01" tolerance (in wartime, this tolerance was further increased to .084").

    You will see that there is a lot of fuss by people who believe that their Enfield is out of spec. This is because the SAAMI gauges retailed by several manufacturers are different to the British gauges, and give a false reading. Part of the reason for this is that commercial US .303 brass often has a thinner rim than British or other manufacture.

    Despite what you may read elsewhere, headspace does not cause a safety issue. Consider the bald facts that c.12 million Enfields of all models were made, and there is not - to my knowledge - even one case of one "blowing up" whilst using normal ammunition.

    The "accuracy" aspect is debatable: target shooters, particularly in Australiaicon, did indeed measure rim thickness and try and tighetn up the headspace - usually to .067", which is the optimum measurement. However, the rifle do not neccesarily react to tighter headspace, and can in fact become less accurate. I've tested dozens of rifles, swapping between long and short boltheads, and there is rarely any significant improvement. The overwhelming factors that determine accuracy are (1) correct stock fit (2) barrel condition (3) shooter ability. No(3) is significant: I've witnessed a sample of about 350 people shooting Enfields; only about 10% of those shooters were capable of the tight grouping from which other factors can be deduced. Ergo, for most people, tinkering with the rifle isn't going to help.

    Other small warnings:

    (a) the only reason an Enfield usually needs a change of bolthead is if it has been rebarrelled or ahd a new bolt fitted. The rifles were designed to be fired with wet ammunition and cope with extreme conditions. Most Enfields are still perfectly in spec with the bolthead they left the factory or service with - 100+ years ago, for some of them!

    (b) over-tightening the headspace, by using the wrong gauge and then buying a longer bolthead, can cause premature wear to the rifle lugs.

    (c) When an Enfield military armourer came to fit a new barrel, bolt or bolthead, he had boxes of spares from which to pick suitable components. This is vital, because the bolthead also has to be fitted for "over-rotation" as well as for length: if the bolthead rotates past the locking rib by more than a certain amount, then the recoil forces may be passing through the screw thread, rather than the bolt body. Civilian owners who go out and buy a single "longer" bolthead by mail order obviously take a chance that it will leave their rifle in spec - I suspect that most have in fact put their rifles "out of spec".

    Before you go tinkering with your rifle, deduce what its best accuracy is, and if in fact it has a problem. Most No4s in average will shoot a 4" group at 100yds with any old milsurp or new commercial ammo. Many will shoot much better than this. Its always a good idea to obtain several types of .303 ammo, and see if your rifle "likes" one more than the others. Most Enfields will shoot best with flat-base bullets in milsurp MkVII ammo.

    Most No4s can have their accuracy improved by just checking that the stocking-up is correct as per standard military issue. Sometimes a small corrective adjustment can dramatically improve grouping ability.
    Regards,
    Doug

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    Firstly I'd say take care.

    How much 'over-rotation' is there ? 45 degrees, 90 degrees or what ?
    Over rotation will not improve with firing.
    All that happens is that the threads on the bolt head collapse under recoil instead of the force being passed from the bolt head to the bolt body.
    When clocked correctly with everything in line the bolt head should be tight onto the bolt body.

    To fit the bolt into the rifle the bolt head must align with the bolt body, I'm guessing this means that the bolt head will be partly 'unscrewed' in effect closing down the headspace - I'm guessing thats the source of the problem.

    You need to find ( or get a smith to sort it) a bolt head that clocks correctly and gives you acceptable headspace. Remember that Enfield headspace is 0.064" to 0.074" (not the namby-pamby lawyer's safety margin 0.070")

    Bolt head clocking is just as important as headspace (if not more so)
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    Alan, it clocks to 30 degrees -

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    That is 10 degrees too much................. Try a selection of bolt heads but if they fail, you'll have to replace the bolt. The EMER says that bolthead overturn must not exceed by 10 degrees at Base workshop.

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    Sounds like a shorter head is the way to go. Thanks -

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    I would have suggested another option as well but after reading the replies to your post, it would be totally wrong. I've replaced more than a few bolt heads on Lee Enfields and never once bothered to check for rotational indexing. Now, I have to go back and check my Lee Enfields. I suspect most are OK but now that the can of worms has been opened, thanks to the heads up given above, I can't just let them be without being sure, even though most of them will never see another round shot out of them by me. I just don't have enough ammunition or time left to give them all a decent workout.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 101VooDoo View Post
    Sounds like a shorter head is the way to go. Thanks -
    Not necessarily - a bolt head that clocks correctly is the first stage.
    Mine are not the best, but they are not too bad. I can think of lots of Enfields I'd rather have but instead of constantly striving for more, sometimes it's good to be satisfied with what one has...

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    I think now is the time for someone '.....wot is cleverer than me at computin' should resurrect an article I did a little while ago about the ins and outs of setting up a correctly configured bolt.

    Be advised chaps, that this is not FITTING a bolt or CHSing a bolt, but just the correct fitting up of a bolt assembly, according to the EMER bible and as taught to young Armourers......... and then practiced for many years afterwards

    What A de E says about bolt head overturn is dead right. Although 10 degrees is the given acceptable figure, in reality, ANY overturn should be that the load of recoil is taken down the bolt body through the circular contact of the bolt head onto the bolt body and then directly to the locking shoulders and NOT the threads. An important point there

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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Laidlericon View Post
    I think now is the time for someone '.....wot is cleverer than me at computin' should resurrect an article I did a little while ago about the ins and outs of setting up a correctly configured bolt.
    For those members who have never click on the active hotlink in the signature block at the bottom of any of his posts, here's a couple of sample articles Peter is referring to …

    Index of Peter Laidler's series of formal Knowledge Library articles and selected archived posts ... (click here)

    Cartridge Headspace (CHS)


    Fitting Rifle Bolts - CHS and Boltheads


    Regards,
    Doug

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