How to reduce free bore in No1 Mlll*

[RJW NZ]

I think the boys nailed it, bullet is too short compared to a 174 or 150 grain,
My 2 cents = try heavier bullets and observe if problems still exists, use a chronometer,
Then reload with 150grains, using larger diameter bullets to match the wear on your bore.
If you want speed of light varmint type shooting you could always try the classic and well proven 303-25 and there's other wildcat sizes out there too, etc, thats a big case driving a small bullet very very fast, 3240?
Or, a new barrel ...
but do not shorten it the way you're thinking, try everything else first.
Don't use boat tails on a worn barrel = keyhole issues.

and btw, welcome to the forum, for links to absolutely everything enfield try enfield resource.com

[RobD]

Or, if velocity is your goal, use a sabot bullet ( see Sabots, sabot, sabot slugs, sabot rounds, sabot ammo, sabot reloading, sabot results, sabot pictures, sabot ammunition, sabot ammo, sabot starter kit, sabot projectile, sabot bullets, shooting reloading, hunting reloading, reloading components, reloading ammunition, varmint hunting).

[Patrick Chadwick]

If you want to establish the maximum bullet length and size that you can sensibly use in your rifle, please take a look at

Refurbishing an Argentine RB - Part11

(Restorer's forum) - which provides a detailed description of a method that can be applied to any bolt-action rifle. In particular, it illustrates that a too-short bullet causes insuperable problems.


Basically, I suspect (like others) that you have created your own problem. The Lee Enfield No.I MKIII was not designed as a varmint rifle, and there is no point in trying to turn it into one.

Follow the method outlined in the contribution mentioned above, and you will quickly have something that works as well as the rifle (and the "driver"!) will allow.


Patrick

[tidesout]

The Lee Enfield No.I MKIII was not designed as a varmint rifle

[Hi all Thanks for the replies. I have obtained some 180grn projectiles and these work a treat, so the 125 grns are banished to the back of the cupboard (unless someone else wants them )

tidesout

[Bruce_in_Oz]

Good to hear of the improvement with the 180's!

Not sure whose loading data you are using, but AR2208 (ADI) is WAY too slow for 125gn bullets in a .303, good with stiff loads behind the 180's, though.

AR2207 will work much better, AR2205 is a bit quick.

I did some experiments with the military 123gn projectiles from 7.62 x 39 ammo about fifteen years ago. They group "reasonably" and you can make them go REALLY fast. However, they have a radically different point of impact from 150 or 180gn bullets. I also tried some Remington sabots with 55gn bullets driven by, I think, AR2205. Unfortunately, my old load data card file got lost in a move. It's probably mouldering away under a bunch of as-yet unpacked bric-a-brac.

[Buntlineguy]

I had the same problem. I found Hornady #3130 bullets did the trick.
B

[MK Wheelie]

I did some experiments with the military 123gn projectiles from 7.62 x 39 ammo about fifteen years ago. They group "reasonably" and you can make them go REALLY fast. However, they have a radically different point of impact from 150 or 180gn bullets.

I've played with pulled 7.62 x 39's also, with the same basic results as yourself. It may be relavent to note that the FMJ bullets share the same basic dimentions as a 150 grain bullet, so would be closer to the rifling than a 125 gr. copper jacketed bullet which is physically smaller in dimentions.