no 32 mk1 scope service

[Old Lancer]

Can any fellow forummer point me to a West Australian source for scope service and cleaning.I'm aware of the BDL/Peter Laidler service but i'd like to stay local if at all possible.
Thanks in advance for your input.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Brian Dick]

Many from Australia, New Zealand, Europe and elsewhere have sent their scopes directly to GE Fulton in Bisley for service by Peter. Email them at http://www.fultonsofbisley.com and they'll give you the rundown. That's what I'd do if I were you.

[Peter Laidler]

I'd look closer to home personally. There MUST be someone in Australia who can fix them

[Alan de Enfield]

I'd look closer to home personally. There MUST be someone in Australia who can fix them

Peter - just remember you are "one of the few, to whom so many owe so much" (to paraphrase an old saying)

[newbieDAN]

What precisely is the problem, dirty optics, stiff drums...or a bit of both? There seems to be very clear instructions here. Not something you want to tackle yourself? If it was mine, I'd be having a go myself. The draftsman inside me likes the disassemble - reassemble precision.

[RJW NZ]

What precisely is the problem, dirty optics, stiff drums...or a bit of both? There seems to be very clear instructions here. Not something you want to tackle yourself? If it was mine, I'd be having a go myself. The draftsman inside me likes the disassemble - reassemble precision.

Hi ND, you'll probably get a few excited replies but I'll get in first and try something more printable, lol.

The No32 scope pretty much falls out side the realms of skilled home handy blokes; 32's most often have two common problems; frozen adjustment knobs caused by dried out old grease, and lenses that separate and grow mold in the old organic glues.

Lenses don't grow on trees anymore and have to be salvaged, and it does take a pro to fix and reglue them, no two ways about that one.
And contrary to popular internet belief putting your prized, rare WW2 sniper scope in the baking tray in the oven to melt the dried grease will in fact have other consequences, like softening everything else. If the scope is otherwise in good shape professional repairers will get just the knobs moving again and not charge for a total ground up overhaul.

In short, the potential down sides of even a careful home repairer breaking something irreplacable inside an expensive scope far out way the dollars spent on doing it the right way the first time around.

[newbieDAN]

Hi ND, you'll probably get a few excited replies but I'll get in first and try something more printable, lol.

The No32 scope pretty much falls out side the realms of skilled home handy blokes; 32's most often have two common problems; frozen adjustment knobs caused by dried out old grease, and lenses that separate and grow mold in the old organic glues.

Lenses don't grow on trees anymore and have to be salvaged, and it does take a pro to fix and reglue them, no two ways about that one.
And contrary to popular internet belief putting your prized, rare WW2 sniper scope in the baking tray in the oven to melt the dried grease will in fact have other consequences, like softening everything else. If the scope is otherwise in good shape professional repairers will get just the knobs moving again and not charge for a total ground up overhaul.

In short, the potential down sides of even a careful home repairer breaking something irreplacable inside an expensive scope far out way the dollars spent on doing it the right way the first time around.

I've read Peter's explanations numerous times in relation to freeing up frozen drums, doing it with care, and methodically seems to not to be outside the realms of us meer mortals.

Obviously separated or cracked lenses, broken graticule, snapped screws...seem to fall outside the OP's scope (pardon the pun) of request for assistance.

[Peter Laidler]

Mk1's usually suffer with filthy/dusty internals, separating lenses and corroded turret screws that shear off as soon as you look at them. Gummed up drums are the preserve of Mk3's together with oiled up Mk3's. Caused by owners attempting to oil the drums with a gallon or so of WD40 to free the dried out mastic. Alas, the dried out mastic prevents the oil from doing enything except getting inside via the lead screw hole

[RJW NZ]

I've read Peter's explanations numerous times in relation to freeing up frozen drums, doing it with care, and methodically seems to not to be outside the realms of us meer mortals.

Obviously separated or cracked lenses, broken graticule, snapped screws...seem to fall outside the OP's scope (pardon the pun) of request for assistance.

Cool, you seem to know this territory, I was worried you were new to these and keen to get inside one, er, like I did, unsuccessfully, to free up some stuck knobs, ... I was smart enough not to use the oven.

[Old Lancer]

As the venerable Capt. Laidler says, there must be someome in Oz. The whole of Oz if not WA at least. ???. Come on, dont be shy .