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Taking the Plunge
I'm finally going to enter a long range vintage military match in CA which is for fun but still goes out to 800 yards. Before anyone starts I'm aware that 1000 is technically long range and this isn't but as I've never shot past 300 before (and that only 5 rounds) it's pretty daunting. Only for fun but still pretty daunting So the only rifles I have with windage adjustable sights are a 1914 Lithgow No.1 Mk 3 and one 1916 Enfield No.1 Mk 3 so it's those or nowt. I can't get to a long range range (as it were) before this date. is there anything I can do to help without that? I'm practicing prone firing over my packback at a .08cm black circle 5 yards away with snap caps about 10 times each day but can't figure out any other way to help. my big worry as anyone who's seen my threads will know is sight picture, my ****ty eyes and whether to try 6 oc clock or center hold. Can't personally see how six o clock can work with bigger targets as you get further out as the POI is getting further away from POA.
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05-15-2011 11:32 PM
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Legacy Member
You really have to use a 6 o'clock hold. It's all to do with a repeatable sight picture. You'll find that the foresight blade will be thicker than your view of the target. Get hold of a good sling
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You are technically correct about the six o'clock hold, newcastle, but on the remote chance that your POI matches exactly with the POA, just add the MOA change from the POA to the center of the target. With SMLEs it takes a little extra ciphering as there are only yardage hash marks on the sight itself, but you may utilize one of the ballistics calculators on the net to do the conversions.
Otherwise, just add 25 or 50 yds to your sight seting and fire a sighter. Then adjust accordingly.
If you have a good 300 yd zero, then moving to 800 won't be a huge challenge, but a 100yd known zero is MUCH less reliable.
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Thank You to jmoore For This Useful Post:
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Was thinking about the 25 yard zeroing target I've seen with the semicircle on it. I'll have no chance beforehand to zero at long range so It'll have to be done at short range. I have access to 25 yar s and 100 yard ranges before the shoot.
Does anyone have one of these targets and know how high the Mk7 bullet should strike the target at 25 yards to equal 300, 500 600 AND 800 yards respectively. I could measure it out, zero to each elevation at 25 yards and note the sight settings in advance. This is the only way I can think of to at least get on paper with two sighters before they start scoring. Alternatively does any know how much higher a bullet should strike at 100 yards to be on at 300, 500, 600 and 800 yards? Seems that someone would have this iinformation handy?
Also with the 6 o clock hold. if POI is 3 inches higher than POA at 100 yards, does this maybe translate to 6 inches at 200 9 at 300, 15 at 500 and 24 at 800 yards? it would if there was a straight line, and as I'm adjusting for elevation where I allow for bullet drop doe sthis take care of teh difference in POI/POA?
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Legacy Member
You also need to find out what targets your club is using. As the long-range targets at our range change in diameter the further back we go. The black inner changes in diameter from 300 to 600 at our range, which will alter your POA and POI with a six o'clock hold (just to confuse things)
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Legacy Member
Ok so the Blacks are as follows 300 yards - 19inches, 500 yards - 30 inches, 600 yards - 36 inches, 800 yards - 44 inches. The more I think about this the more it seems like the 25 yard zeroing target is the way to go. I know you can zero to 200 yards and maybe more using this specific target. Anyone have a link? SOMEONE must have the details on one of these where you can roughly Zero for 500 , 600 and 800 yards also as wel as the 200 yards. Please help me out here guys, I have a month to learn to shoot a No.1 at a distance I'd normally drive.
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base line middle of a inch and half circle 200yd zero is top of circle,300yd + another inch, 400yd another threequarter of an inch, 500yd another inch and a quarter, 600yd another inch and a half. Thats all i have
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Advisory Panel
In the old long-range competitions in this country, the bull generally ran about 2 MOA.
If they are shooting the 'tin hat' target you should set the rifle up so that the POA to give you a solid bull is with just a hairline of white below the 'tin hat'. If they are shooting a full black target, then it would be better (for you) to set the rifle up for a 'lollipop' sight picture.
Pop into the MKL and check out some of the old manuals in there. There were pretty good instructions regarding shooting out to Service ranges (which included 800) in the 1914 Musketry book..... which happens to be designed around your rifle.
Good luck, friend!
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"base line middle of a inch and half circle 200yd zero is top of circle,300yd + another inch, 400yd another threequarter of an inch, 500yd another inch and a quarter, 600yd another inch and a half. Thats all i have"
THIS is perfect. Odd that it should add ONE inch from 200-300yds, 3/4" for 300-400yds and an Inch and 1/4 for 400-500 yards. Anyone know how much further up for 800 yards? I'm guessing about 3 inches but if anyone knows.....
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Legacy Member
Actually came to make some targets like this last night and realised I have one more quetsion. The 25 yards zero target is a black semi-circle. IS the circle that this would be half of, an inch and a half in RADIUS or an inch and a half in DIAMETER?
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