Bore rust/corrosion removal?

[ANDYZ28]

I am the proud new owner of an all matching 1918 (SN K93144) BSA No1 Mk111* all original finish and the butt stock is stamped FR. I cleaned her up to remove decades of dirt, dust, and rock hard dried out preservative. I am still in the process of getting the oil out of the stock. The stacking swivel is missing. Did it, would it even have had one? But my biggest problem is the bore condition.

The rifle hung on a wall for over 40 years with no attention at all; the bore is rough, strong 5 groove rifling but rough. In my initial attempts to clean it, it ate up a couple of bronze bore brushes, and shreads patches. I would like to get it a clean as practical, before making any judgement concerning firing it.

Should I try some sort of steel/stainless steel bore brush?

It is my hope to possibly shoot it in the CMP Games Vintage Rifle matches.

Thanks, Andy

Information

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[CapnJohn]

Take your time!!
Bore Cleaner and bronze bore brushes are not friends, the bore cleaner is designed to eat copper. Stainless might be TOO STRONG, while composite material has neither of these hangups!!
PATIENCE!!

[JBS]

If you are in the US get a bottle of Butch's Bore Shine. With the furniture off the barreled receiver cork the muzzle and with bolt removed fill the bore with Butch's. Stand it in a bucket in the corner for a week. Drain, brush, then patch. Repeat as needed. If bore is still rough after it is stripped you may be able to have a Smith that knows what he is doing do a very light bore lapping to take the sharp tops off the pit rims.

Do not assume that a sewer pipe barrel will not shoot. I have had dozens of old military rifles with sewer pipe bores shoot MOA with the right ammo come through my shop.

[ANDYZ28]

Thanks for your sage advice. Yes I am in the states 23112. Shoud the rifle have a stacking swivel on the nose cap? It appears to me to have never had one.

[browningautorifle]

If it's a 1918 then yes it probably started with a front swivel. Who knows what year it went absent.

[Peter Laidler]

What you should ALWAYS remember Andy is that removal of any corrosion WILL mean the removal of material. And in this case, it WILL mean the removal of material from the structure of the bore.

As JBS says - and it's 1000% correct, just because a bore is like a sewer pipe don't mean that it can't shoot straight. If the bullet twists and gas can't escape past it as it's winding its way up the bore, you're halfway home. Some sniper rifles would be shot-out, looked crap and barely pass the gauge testing criteria but would shoot like little dreams while others looked and gauged up good but wouldn't hit a cows arse with a cricket bat.

The final arbiter should always be an accuracy test

[Brian Dick]

Sometimes just shooting them and cleaning them hot while at the range will work wonders too.

[sovblocgunfan]

How about an electronic bore cleaner? you can make one with a phone charger and some cheapo materials...

[Sht_LE]

I agree with Brian. I would give the bore a good scrub and once its about as clean as I can get it (sounds like you already have it at that point) and I know the bore is not obstructed I will just shoot it a few times. It is amazing the differance it can make. Peter is on the money too, I don't care what it looks like, its how she shoots. I have a Winchester Model 1892 in 38-40 that dates to 1901. The bore has some pitting in the last 8 or so inches and the crown is worn in places from being cleaned from the muzzle, but she shoots. From the bench she will put five rounds into an 1" at 50 yards. Still amazes me.

[gunner]

I done it with Brownells cleaning paste. Oil the barrel wipe through with the cleaning paste for several times, go shooting, oil the bore wipe it with the paste and so on. After i did it several times the bore of my old Swede ( a wall hanger too) the bore is good and the rust is gone. And the best, it shoots really good.