Failure to fire issue

[kdanie]

I picked up a '70's vintage carbine last winter from a co-worker. It was in his closet for a long time and about to turn into a pile of rust so I stripped it down (other than the bolt), cleaned it up and shot it with Duracoat. I reassembled it with a Wolf spring set and installed a red dot optical site, my old eyes don't work so well with peep sites. When I took it to the range to see how it shot it failed to fire, the firing pin made a slight dent in the primer but didn't strike it hard enough to ignite. I bought a bolt tool recently and took it apart. I found 3 small brass disks inside the bolt, they appear to be pieces of primer brass. I removed them, cleaned inside of the bolt and all the associated pieces. I went back to the range confident that it would fire but it did the exact same thing. I'm thinking I need a new firing pin, any ideas??

Here's a pic of the rifle:

Any help would be greatly appreciated, as of now it's just a cute paper weight.

ken

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[grits]

I think that be out there in Ca where vintage is important, that you got a bad vintage. (commercial).
Grits

---------- Post added at 04:47 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:46 PM ----------

I think that be out there in Ca where vintage is important, that you got a bad vintage. (commercial).
Grits

[feets]

You obviously have a commercial carbine but what brand is it?
Just for giggles, do a quickie check on the head space. Remove the magazine. Place a fired case in the chamber and let the bolt fly home.
Now, reaching through the mag well and over the top of the receiver, try to wiggle the bolt. Don't touch the op rod. Does the bolt twist or move back and forth?
If there is movement (especially back and forth) your head space could be excessive.

Another way to check is to put layers of clear Scotch tape over the head of the case and closing the bolt. Keep adding layers until the bolt no longer closes. Measure the length of the case with the tape on the head. If it's much longer than 1.290" you could have a problem.

[kdanie]

Thanks for the response. It's a Plainfield. I don't have any empty cases to do the check you describe as I have yet to be able to shoot it. I guess I'll order the headspace gauge set from Fulton Armory. I might as well throw in a new firing pin too.

As far as grits comment, I'm not a collector and don't care about vintage-I just want a decent shooter. OHHH, I just got it.... VINTAGE! I'm a little slow in my old age. I AM on the edge of wine country-grapes to the east, cows to the west.

ken

[Harlan (Deceased)]

Hi Ken - Welcome to the forum.

Below are two links to web pages put together by a member here who has done a great deal of research on commercial carbines. The first link address' some of the safety issues and covers a little about head space -

M1CarbinesInc.com

This page covers a little of the history of Plainfields -

Plainfield Machine Co.

[INLAND44]

The Plainfields were definitely the better commercials of the post-war period, and like the referenced site says, a number of them were bought by the government. I'm thinking these consisted of the Plainfield receiver and all USGI parts.
You need to check the headspace as above and also the firing pin protrusion, along with a good look at the tip to make sure it's not broken. The firing pin should be able to shake freely in the bolt. If it has excessive headspace, you'll have to try another bolt in it. But the thing is we know it fired before because of the brass in the bolt. Maybe the trigger housing needs some attention/cleaning/oiling - the hammer may be giving light hits.

[imarangemaster]

It does sound like a headspace issue. With the bolt out of the firearm, how much does the firing pin protrude from the face when you push it forward? Sometimes dried crud and grease migrates into the bolt face and keeps the firing pin from going al the way forward.

[kdanie]

Thanks for all the replies.

According to the PO it used to shoot well and was pretty accurate, he used it in a "carbine only" match several years ago and did well.

The firing pin is free inside the bolt but there still may be crud inside the bolt face. I'll check the firing pin protrusion to be sure it's at least .048". I'll also disassemble the bolt again and clean the inside with a spray solvent to ensure there is not gunk hiding in there and try again.

The hammer strikes the pin quite hard with the Wolf spring so I have no doubt the hammer has enough energy to do the job, I just need to get that energy to the primer.

Thanks again for the replies.

ken

[INLAND44]

Just blasting out the bolt with carb cleaner may not be good enough. At least run a pipe cleaner through it to see if you get any grease or dirt. Make sure the barrel breech is clean and there is no crud in the locking lugs.

[kdanie]

I just checked the firing pin protrusion, it's .063" so it should be good though the tip seems a little beat up. I'll scrub the interior of the bolt and the breech when I return from a quick business trip. The locking lugs are clean, the the bolt locks in place easily when it closes.

I'll also order the headspace gauges when I return.

Thanks for the continued help with this issue.

ken