Mauser M71 cavalry carbine at the range

[villiers]

Really can´t do much about the foresights on the Werder or the 71 cav. carbine as the blade is an integral part of the sight base (which, in turn is soldered onto the barrel). I always keep just the tip of the foresight in the V, so can´t get it lower than that. At present there are three solutions to the problem: (1) to drill a minute hole in the top of the foresight blade and use a pin with a glass bubble (2) to soft solder a brass plate to the front of the foresight (this was originally done to the Jäger rifles and maybe also to the carbines) and (3) ... think I´ll take your advice and use a `45 felt cleaning plug as a filler and see how that works (it´ll most likely produce a ballistic curve like a mortar). As you mentioned ... `tis a bit nippy at the moment on the range (and it´s about 20 kms on the motorbike) so will spend the time re-loading (neck sizer made by Triebel).

[Patrick Chadwick]

(3) ... think I´ll take your advice and use a `45 felt cleaning plug as a filler and see how that works

- That is certainly the easiest option to try out.

(3) ... it´ll most likely produce a ballistic curve like a mortar.

- Which seems to be what you need.

(3) ... `tis a bit nippy at the moment on the range

- The technical term is "brass monkeys weather".

Good luck! - And let us know how it turns out.


Patrick

[Emri]

Hey Patrick,

If you see this posting, how about looking at the Mauser forum and helping me out with a M/71 question I posted there.

Thanks,

Emri

[Patrick Chadwick]

Whichever you meant, Patrick said it all. And I am not qualified to say anything about prices where you live, apart from the general rule of thumb that what you pay in dollars, we pay in euros !


Patrick

[Emri]

Whichever you meant, Patrick said it all. And I am not qualified to say anything about prices where you live, apart from the general rule of thumb that what you pay in dollars, we pay in euros !


Patrick

Actually, the question was directed to you as you seem to be on top of the European arms and know your stuff. Yes, trying to compare prices would be a bit inconclusive, but I really don't know if it is a $50 or $500 (US) rifle. I have learned from a magazine article that "Amberg", stamped on top of the barrel chamber area, is the Bavarian state arsenal where it was built. I,ve had no response to my other questions yet. The mentioned article was more of a history lesson about European conflicts than about the rifle.

Thanks again,

Emri

[villiers]

Have scratched away the crud and found that ... both the Werder AND the M71 carbine really do have dovetailed front sight blades. So, all is not lost. Just have to find blades that fit (or have dovetails that are a bit bigger and can be filed down).

[Patrick Chadwick]

Just have to find blades that fit

Search "the usual suspects" for extra-tall blades for the Kar98. I have fitted these to Mausers from the M1871 BPCR right through to the FN-Israeli, including the Argentine Engineer's Carbine. It may look a bit odd if the blade comes up above the ears, but it works! It seems that Mauser dovetail dimensions stayed constant for a century.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Patrick, here are some photos of the tall K98 blade in the Argentine Engineers Carbine.

Attachment 33172

Attachment 33171

The M71 carbine is probably very similar, and as you can see,
Attachment 33170

it may be necessary to file the ends of the dovetail to provide some left-right clearance for adjusting the windage.


Patrick

[villiers]

Thanx again Patrick (for the info that Mauser used the same measurements). I was a bit wary of the blade dovetail expanding the dovetail base on the rifle (as happened to me once previously with a P08). I´ve got some Mauser K89 front sight blades. Not worried too much if the dovetail´s a bit smaller as I can stick them in with Loctite. Will post a pic of the finished product.

[Patrick Chadwick]

if the dovetail´s a bit smaller as I can stick them in with Loctite.

You might regret the Loctite later if you want to shift the blade. If the dovetail is loose, the best way of tightening it is to peen it on the bottom surface at a couple of spots, close to the edge, with a well-pointed centre punch. If you have one of the spring-loaded type that "snaps" when you press hard enough, you can do this very sensitively without needing a hammer, repeating until you get enough friction.