To remove or not to remove rust on a luger

[Bruce McAskill]

Bronze wool is the least likely to remove more of the bluing. As stated do not use steel wool and do use plenty of oil as you lightly scrub the rusted area. Best to do a little bit at a time but be sure you remove all of the rust or it will just continue under an oil coating. Light surface rust is the easiest to remove but if it's advanced to pitting then as stated value has decreased by quite a bit.

[browningautorifle]

This is the part I hate. You tell us not to do this or that will happen. I did that and it didn't happen. I'm not talking through my a**. I speak from experience and would never lead anyone to damage their firearm.

[Johnny Peppers]

Bronze wool was made for using on boats rather than steel wool. Any remnants of the steel wool left on a boat hull would naturally rust, where remnants of bronze wool don't rust. Bronze wool is not any better than steel wool on removing rust on a pistol, and in fact the steel wool comes in finer grades. If bronze wool had been better, DWM would have used it bluing their pistols.
Up until the mid 1950's Remington Arms rust blued their shotguns and rifles. Instead of using steel wool they used power driven fine wire wheels which was faster than scrubbing the rust by hand. If the fine wire wheels didn't hurt the bluing, 4/0 steel wool sure won't hurt it.

[villiers]

Whereas DWM in Berlin rust blued their Lugers, Mauser used an acid solution. Mauser used up a large stock of DWM parts when they took over Luger production. So if the gun was rust blued, you could very likely repeat the process by carding light rust off with a fine steel wire brush. Of it´s cold blued, a specialist would must likely have to remove the surface bluing. As stated previously, it´s your choice whether to maintain the gun´s collector value, or to achieve an attractive family heirloom. As far as I know, the specialists on the Luger sites are booked up for months ahead and I would personally ask them to for their advice.

[Johnny Peppers]

Hot caustic blue had not come into use before DWM-BKIW was taken over by Mauser, but even after Mauser started to build the P.08 they continued to rust blue the pistols up until mid 1937. Starting about mid year in 1937 Mauser began to blue the P.08 in hot caustic blue.

[arado]

I use Waxoyl. A British rust proofing for cars. It takes rust off with steel wool and it keeps it off.Plus it nurtures the holster leather and wood grips.No Oxidation. I use it on all my machines, leather, wood. I clean my guns with it after shooting.Gary

[villiers]

Never thought about Waxoyl. Problem solved!

(I also use Waxoyl ... and it´s magic)

[arado]

Never thought about Waxoyl. Problem solved!

(I also use Waxoyl ... and it´s magic)

When I use Waxoyl I mix it with oil paint thinner "white spirits". 50/50 and use a hand held spray bottle to apply. Thinner evaporates leaving a thin wax film. Gary

[Kwizard]

I've found, in my 50 years of gun ownership, that aluminum foil is the best light rust remover. Use it on a dry surface. Rub away the rust. It will leave a light silvery film that you can then wipe off with a patch with a light oil such as Gunzilla on it. The Waxoyl sounds like a good idea for long term storage. I'll have to get some and try it.

[Johnny Peppers]

Excellent for long term storage and ease of use is LPS 3. It has a protective wax in suspension, and when sprayed on the carrier evaporates leaving a wax film.

My dad had 10 or so Lincoln gasoline engine welding machines at a plant that produced bromine. Bromine is very caustic, and the fumes were eating holes in the radiators of the welding machines. He was getting two or three months use out of a radiator before it started leaking in the fins, so a Lincoln representative came down to see what could be done. He recommended spraying the radiator every morning with LPS 3, and none of the radiators failed in the remaining 10 months they were on that job.

LPS 1 Greaseless Lubricant (No. 37129) provides a dry, thin, lubricating film that penetrates deep into minute crevices, dries fast and won't attract dust or dirt. It loosens rusted and frozen parts, provides short-term corrosion resistance, cleans and lubricates delicate mechanisms. Displaces moisture, good for drying out or lubricating electrical/electronic components. 11-oz. can.
LPS 2 Industrial-Strength Lubricant (No. 37130) is a multipurpose lubricant and penetrant with added corrosion protection. It loosens rusted and frozen parts and reduces wear caused by friction and corrosion. 11-oz. can.
LPS 3 Heavy-Duty Rust Inhibitor (No. 37131) forms a soft, waxy film for long-term corrosion protection and lubrication. It works under severe weather conditions to protect metal parts in storage for up to two years. Especially suited to industrial, aviation and electrical and automotive applications. Also provides non-sling lubrication for chains, cable or wire rope and stops corrosion of aluminum. 11-oz. can.