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Advisory Panel
Yeah, it takes years of practice to get as sloppy as that!
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Thank You to Patrick Chadwick For This Useful Post:
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12-27-2011 07:47 AM
# ADS
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Originally Posted by
Patrick Chadwick
(Question for moderators: how do I make a link to a previous contribution?)
Hi, Patrick.
Just go to the thread where the post you're referring to is.
Then at the top of the page where the URL is, move your mouse up to anywhere in the long string and 'Left Click' in it anywhere.
After you left click, the whole string will darken. Then 'Right Click' and a box will drop down.
'Left Click' on the word COPY.
Then go back to the the thread where you want to make the link, and in the dialogue box, 'Right Click' and a drop down box will appear -
'Left Click' on the word 'Paste' -
This will make a link in the thread so people can just click on it and be taken to the original thread you're referring to, so you don't have to re-post the whole thing. Showing links to the original thread also often helps because it captures posts in the original thread's page that might help to explain the information with-in the original context.
The "left Clicking' and 'Right Clicking' is easier to do than it sounds, and only takes seconds in actual practice.
I hope thiis is what you meant and helps,
~ Harlan
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The Following 2 Members Say Thank You to Harlan (Deceased) For This Useful Post:
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Thank You to Patrick Chadwick For This Useful Post:
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Thanks Patrick, I'll look over that article. On another note, I just posted another thread about the same bayonet here: 1913 bayonet scabbard. Info please? asking about the unique scabbard that it came with. Any thoughts?
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Got pics
Great news. There will be no restoration needed on the bayonet. The pictures on the auction listing only made it look rusty. I just got it in the mail today and it's in great condition, just a bit of pitting on the tip. The "rust" was just discoloring in the metal. The tang is solid, the wood is sturdy and well preserved, and there's an edge that's been put on a long time ago, possibly (hopefully) while it was in service during the Great War. The edge has the same aged color as the rest of the blade.
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Originally Posted by
Patrick Chadwick
Which is why I seriousy recommend first using the electrolytic meethod. Any brush will brush everything, so there isl always likely to be some microscopic abrasion which - as has been pointed out -
will become noticeable if you overdo it . But electrolysis only affects the rust, and preceding + following ultrasonic cleaning shakes off the loose flakes and sludge.
Please give it a try.
Patrick
DWM and Erfurt made hundreds of thousands of P.08's during WWI, and guess what was used to remove the rust of the rust bluing process? Not electrolytic, but steel wool. The electrolytic process can remove the rust down to the bright metal in the rust spots, and you want the patina of the rust left in the pits.
This one was finished some 110 years ago by being scrubbed with steel wool, and it doesn't look too shabby and shows no microscopic abrasion.