WWII garand stock refinishing

[Veloce]

Hello, everyone.
I just purchased a very nice matching Garand made in March of 1942.
The stock, however, was probably lightly sanded and then lightly varnished(not sure if with shellac or polyurethane product).
The SA/GHS stamp is still there and is completely intact.
Can anyone comment on stripping the varnish and refinishing the stock correctly vs. leaving it alone.
If refinishing, then who would be the best person for the job, or if doing it yourself, what techniques/products can you recommend?
Thanks!

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[Bill Hollinger]

Welcome to Milsurps.com. Glad to have you here. We have a few stock experts here so I'll let them hook you up with the best course of action.

[Milsurp Collector]

Pictures?

If it has some type of varnish that you want to remove I recommend Kleen Kutter stripper Klean-Strip


It is gentle and designed for fine furniture. I have also used Citristrip Welcome to CitriStrip.com

To get the last bits of varnish off I recommend that you use bronze wool rather than steel wool. You can often find it at hardware stores, boat supply stores, or online.
BRONZE WOOL - Brownells

http://www.steelwool.biz/Bronze_Wool.htm

Steel wool can shed particles that imbed in the wood and then oxidize into little black specks. Bronze wool won't do that, that's why it is preferred for wood. Avoid sandpaper.

Once down to bare wood you can steam out dents if desired. You can use a clothes iron pressed onto a wet washcloth laid over the dent. I prefer to use a steamer





For an authentic oil finish you should use raw (not boiled) linseed oil or 100% pure tung oil (not "tung oil finish"), or both.

Raw linseed oil is sold as "flax seed oil" at Walmart and drug stores as a dietary supplement.



100% pure tung oil is available at fine woodworking stores and online.



Pure Tung Oil Finish - Wood Finishing - All Natural Finish - China Wood Oil - Real Milk Paint
Amazon.com: The Hope Company 16TO12 1 Pint 100% Tung Oil: Home Improvement

Again, use 100% pure tung oil, not the more widely available "tung oil finish" that is actually a varnish with a little tung oil in it.

Raw linseed (flax seed) oil is thinner and easier to apply for beginners. It also reddens more than tung oil. It does take a long time to dry.

100% pure tung oil is more expensive and a little trickier to apply. Thinning it with turpentine helps a lot. It dries faster and is more water-resistant than raw linseed oil.

Whichever you use, apply thin coats and allow each coat to dry before applying the next coat. It is especially important with tung oil to not apply too much (too thick) a coat at once. Multiple thin coats is best.

[Veloce]

Thank you for a very detailed and informative post!
I will post the pics as soon as I have them made.

[Harlan (Deceased)]

Hi Veloce
Welcome to the site! Boy, I can't stand stocks that have been varnished like that. At least it's not irreversible. The stamps will probably show up better too after it's been refinished.

frankderrico (Frank) is THE person from our web site for doing stock work and I recommend him highly. His work is professional grade. He has shown a lot of his before and after work and it's outstanding. He also works for dirt cheap. You can remove the stock from the action and don't need to go through any trouble shipping it yourself directly to Frank's home.

To refinish you rifle, as said above, you'll first need to strip off the varnish which can be a chore. Then you'll need to refinish it. Depending how far it strips you may need to stain or dye it to make it look right, then use several coats of oil.

Here's a link to PM Frank if you decide to use him, or just get a quote. He's super nice and all around good guy.

Military Surplus Collectors Forums

[Bill Hollinger]

Veloce, in addition there are two other great guys that work on stocks. Charlie Holland (Painter777) and Rick Borecky (Rick B.) AKA The Stock Doctor. All three of these fellas, including Frank Derrico (frankderrico) are top notch and are very generous with information regarding stocks and stock restoration. Good luck and keep us posted

[mdrim13]

I also have been doing quite a bit of stock work lately and I would be happy to do it. I must warn you though...I have been looking for a SA GHS for my garand. Its the last part to make it correct. I could provide examples of my work and quote a price based on what you would like.

mdrim13

[Veloce]

Thank you, fellows, for all the suggestions and references...
Your help is much appreciated.
I will start contacting the recommended restorers next week.

[Redleg]

Wipe it with either laquer thinner or formbys, to see if the finish lifts.

Many stock guys will put the stock into the bathtub with warm water and a variety of acceptable detergents, for a few hours-- to raise dents and degrease without damage.

Saves cartouches and does not remove wood.

Let it dry and use a quality oil product. Do not use any sort of quick stain. The walnut has its own color and will come back in a few weeks after drying and will be the right color, as it was originally.

Impatience seems to demand instant results. Wood is a composite material and when cleaned, non destructively, will present you with a great end product.
I have left some for months and not screwed with the color, and been rewarded with amazing military color, and not some sort of way too dark, or red lump.

[Veloce]

Just a quick update:
I shipped the stock to Frank Derrico for refinishing about 10 days ago and just received it back today.
I have to say that his work is incredible!
He was able to remove the old varnish, and refinish the stock with proper oil finish.
He was able to save all the cartouches too.
The turn around time is lightning fast with regular photo updates of the work in progress.
And his prices are very reasonable.
I could not have been happier with his work and recommend him to anyone in need of a correct period refinish.
Thank you, Frank!
Val