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Thread: removal and dissasembly of the bolt for 1917 and P14

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  1. #1
    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    removal and dissasembly of the bolt for 1917 and P14

    Attachment 30312Attachment 30313Attachment 30314Attachment 30315pictures are a little crappy, hard to take pictures and hold parts at the same time.
    to remove the bolt assembly...pull the bolt back, left the bolt latch on the left side out, then pull the bolt clear of the action.
    to remove the cocking assembly, catch the sear engagement on a sharp edge, table, ect, then pull down on the bolt sleeve, instert a penny, nickle or washer in the gap, then rotate out as shown.
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    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    Attachment 30316Attachment 30317Attachment 30318Attachment 30319
    push down on the sleeve, and remove the penny, then rotate the sear engagement to the side as shown and work it up, remove it, then you can remove the sleeve and spring, reverse the steps for assembly.
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    Quote Originally Posted by chuckindenver View Post
    catch the sear engagement on a sharp edge, table, ect, then pull down on the bolt sleeve, instert a penny, nickle or washer in the gap, then rotate out as shown.
    Or close the bolt with the saftey on (opens the gap), insert the penny, open the bolt and remove from rifle.

    Don't know if this method does any harm to the rifle, but this was what I larned when I bougth my M1917 many years ago.

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    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    why would you put wear and tear on a hard to find part???doesnt make any since at all...
    the OP tried that, and it wouldnt work for him..
    this is one of the reasons i stopped doing the how to tips...seems no matter what, someone has a better way...have fun
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    Chuck, I don't think anyone means any disrespect.

    Using either method, I can't break my bolt down. Even pushing the sear engagement as hard as I can on a table, I cannot get it down far enough to slip a coin in. It won't extend far enough. I'm putting some serious force into it too.

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    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    then likely you have a non standard spring. time for a soft jawed vise...if it were in my hands, id have apart in 15 seconds...
    as for the other post..had he read the whole posting, he would see that you tried that, and it didnt work... took a bit of time and effort to take pics, and walk you through this..
    i used to post a weekly hot tip, and for this same reason...i stopped...everyones an expert so i let em fix it till its broke for a while..
    anyway..
    grab the sear engagement with the vice, with a plastic or rubber dead blow mallet, drive the bolt foward at the same time as you push the bolt with gloved hands...then have your helper put a penny in the gap..then remove the cocking assembly..
    could just be crusty, maybe let soak in oil for a while first.
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    I wish you would continue with the hot tips chuck.
    I for one understand your frustration at persons who think they know better. I have come across like minded lee enfield owners.
    Anyway many thanks for helping me out with these rifles. I wish there where more people like you willing to help, i appreciate it!!
    Just wish i lived in the states!!
    Cheers
    Ned

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    If you can close the bolt normally and the cocking piece/firing pin assembly snaps forward when the trigger is pulled (which you said happens, in your original post) then the cocking piece/firing pin assembly is probably not frozen in the bolt housing and the mainspring is not too strong to overcome normal closing of the bolt. With the safety engaged, the lip on the safety pivot that would catch the sear surface on the cocking piece to push the cocking piece back enough to insert a penny is only 0.10" farther than the the normal sear position. Or put another way, you are only compressing the mainspring 1/10" more. Numrich/Gunparts Corp has P14 safetys currently for $6.45. Perhaps Chuck can tell you if they are interchangable between the M 1917 and the P14. I have owned and used one of my P14s since childhood and have always disassembled and and assembled as Chuck has suggested but I tried the method you described and it seems to work fine also. I cannot imagine why your bolt won't come apart, it really is mechanically simple. If you read a lot of back posts on this forum you will find that Chuck has extensive experience with these rifles and I think you should take his advice. Regards Tom

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    just re looked at the photos chuck,
    mate that is one dirty bolt!!!
    Ned

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    Advisory Panel Chuckindenver's Avatar
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    i used a crusty bolt for a reason, to show that it was the best way to take a bolt apart, sounds like he has an aftermarket spring,..or blue salts creep in the works..rust, dried grease hard to say until it comes apart
    warpath metal finishing contact info.
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