Plate for Machining No.4 Bodies

[jmoore]

Perhaps I wasn't clear earlier. All the plate has to be is flat on top. And clear the butt socket in back by some amount. Hog out a relief cut that's bigger than the boss under the receiver ring and again under the rear lump. Add some clamping capability somewhere, and you're good! I pretty much eyeballed the whole plate. All of my attention was on the round clamping rod. Diameter of it can be determined by direct measurement of the action body's raceway.

Flat on top. Everything else is discretionary.

[Brian Dick]

paulseamus, The "T" is long sold along with every one of the rifles on the website C&R page except for the Hungarian sniper, one BSA SMLE and the Enfield revolvers. My apologies to all for taking so long to update the website but I'm going through big changes here, have too much on my plate and the retail end of things has taken a back seat to other priorities. I will get caught up eventually but my LE rifle inventory is dwindling except for a few BSA SMLE's and various No.4's which I'm slowly working to get ready for sale. Bear with me. Brian

[jmoore]

Not been a machinist, I need guidance as to a source for a suitable sheel mill cutter.

Here's a broken example of the type of cutter that is likely close in concept to what was used by H&H to shape the the OD and face of the mounting spigot:



Unfortunately, I don't even remember from whence this tool came. I've had it knocking about for probably twenty or more years.





And here's your calipers to measure work in progress:

[Peter Laidler]

JM and pauseamus, it's a shell mill cutter and they're quite common from your engineering suppliers. But during the L42 days you'd occasionally get the spigot torn off the front pad during recoil. So we'd bore through the known datum hole from the rear of the pad and manufacture a new spigot part, insert from the front and braze in place. I think I mention this in the little book somewhere. But it was a quite common failure and and easy fix. Maybe this is a better option than shell milling the spigit in the first place.

Brilliant set of calipers.......... Calibrated bi annually too I expect! Is that your tool store in the background?

[jmoore]

JM and pauseamus, it's a shell mill cutter and they're quite common from your engineering suppliers. But during the L42 days you'd occasionally get the spigot torn off the front pad during recoil. So we'd bore through the known datum hole from the rear of the pad and manufacture a new spigot part, insert from the front and braze in place. I think I mention this in the little book somewhere. But it was a quite common failure and and easy fix. Maybe this is a better option than shell milling the spigit in the first place.

Brilliant set of calipers.......... Calibrated bi annually too I expect! Is that your tool store in the background?

A bit different format than what we colonials call a shell mill cutter, as there's no cutting edges on the OD. (I have plenty of those, but no photos.) Usually referred to as "stud off" tools, when anyone has a clue what you are talking about- but most folk just look at you funny. Which is why I've kept that broken one- just in case I ever really have to get another.

I agree that the separate spigot method seems easier. Small counterbore on the back side of the pad and a corresponding major OD on the spigot shank. Light press fit from the right side, etc.

Yah, that's our well equipped tool room at my "real job". Always not quite what you need rather later than when you need it. Which is why my personal roll-around tool box at work is such a tank! But it's better than than having to have three as I do at my own shop- and still not enough room to be organized. Machinery's "cheap" (but requires bigger individual chunks of cash). It's the tooling that drags you down...

[jmoore]

Severe anorak alert!

Here's what we wild colonials call a shell mill cutter:


Note the cutting teeth on the OD. Also the face is generally not flat, much like a standard end mill- it's "coned" slightly in order to gain some chip clearance and to reduce friction. Only specialty tools like counterbores/spot facers and such have flat faces.

So converting a regular old end mill won't be optimal!

The "stud off tool" (shown earlier in Post #33) on the other hand is used to remove studs like this one:




Rosan locking method used to retain screw in studs. The cutter removes the bulk of the toothed ring without damaging the part and (usually) stud.

There's also swaged stud flange removing tools, most commonly found retaining drum brakes. These cutters usually have well beveled cutting faces.

The drama with the stud removing tools is that they're too thin walled to be useful for making a spigot forming cutter. I'm thinking that a counterbore may be the best tool to modify if one insists on doing this job the "H&H way". There may be more coming, but this computer is about to self destruct. Can't hardly edit photos, or even stay on line reliably!

[jmoore]

If you want to modify an off the shelf tool for making a spigot as discussed above, here's the likely suspect:




Made specifically to produce a flat face, a counterbore or spot facing tool usually has a small hole in the center for a removable pilot. Enlarge this hole and grind the OD to suit.




Another one. Maybe the ID number will help. I haven't really paid attention, as we used to have a local used tool vendor with buckets of 'em. We would just pick through and get what we needed and then some!