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Unless I've missed it in the dark photos, there SHOULD be a foresight protector there too just to prevent the foresight from being knocked about
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07-13-2012 10:30 AM
# ADS
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It's also looks to be missing the tiny pin that keeps the rear sight axis pin secured.
Will shooting it minus the front sight protector change the harmonics and effect accuracy?
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Legacy Member
Don't return the frontsight to the center. Start where it is and adjust accordingly. It's been put where it is for a reason as it has most definitely been fired. Don't reinvent the wheel.
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I would agree with Peter. A Faz rifle FTR'd by by ROFM. If you take the barrelled action out of the woodwork you will be able to tell if it was made by Faz - take a look at the draw lugs & if they are asymmetrical in the way they are machined (one left as a block & the other with lightening machining) then it's a Faz. PL will correct me if I'm wrong but I think this is a little idiosyncracy in production peculiar to ROF F.
ATB
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Unless I've missed it in the dark photos, there SHOULD be a foresight protector there too just to prevent the foresight from being knocked about
The foresight protector is on order along with a bayonet.
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If it only zeroes with the foresight that far over the side, then check the fit of the fore-end. If it ain't that, then it's fit only for scrap or a new (or a good second hand) barrel
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What would cause a rifle to zero that far to the left outside of the forend fit? Just something in the barrel or at the muzzle?
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It could be something as simple as a bad fit of the fore-end influencing the barrel - to the bolthead not square against the rear of the case. On the other hand it could be cordwear or a pucker or just anything. But in my limited experience here, if it ain't the fore-end, it's the barrel that is slightly bent. Straight enough to pass the short 3" long .301 gauge but it won't be straight enough to pass the 6" long 'gauge testing straightness of bore'. Alas, we stopped using the long gauge, relying on the range test instead.
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Wowo so a bolthead not being square against the case cann affect the zeroing of the rifle. Well you live and learn.
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That's why, when we fit a new bolt, after blueing and checking the locking faces of the bolt and body or bolt head, we smear a light thin coat of engineers blue on the rear face of the NO-GO CHS gauge and LIGHTLY close the bolt/bolthead down onto it. There MUST be a full impression of the rear of the gauge on the face of the bolt
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