Reblueing a Long Lee Enfield

[rescuerandy2]

Good Evening. Getting close to purchasing a Long Lee. However, the metal surfaces have been "cleaned" and the blueing is almost gone. Seller says no scratches and I am looking for a shop that can reblue to or near "OEM" standards. Thanks, Randy.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[ptf18]

I'ld start by contacting Brian Dick here on this forum.

[Bruce_in_Oz]

The original "bluing" was referred to as "browning". It was a "slow-rust" process which involves a lot of carefully controlled corrosion and "carding off". The trick was to get an even coat of "brown" rust and then gently remove that to the point that the darker "blue" appeared. (Ferric vs Ferrous oxides). Repeat ad nauseum until the correct colour and "depth" was achieved. Check the net for articles about traditional English gun-makers blueing processes.

Whacking it in a Du-Lite tank will give a nice finish IF the preparatory work is up to par. STAY AWAY from powered linishing belts and be VERY careful even with powered, stitched or loose cloth buffing wheels, especially if they are "loaded" with wax and grit. The trick is to keep "sharp" edges "sharp" and straight surfaces "straight" and free from "waves".

All of the above is probably why later models seemed to have undergone rudimentary external polishing or even bead-blasting and been finished with a "non-reflective" protective coating. The high-point, so to speak, of this was the finish applied to the No.4 and 5 series.

From a "tactical" angle, a nice shiny rifle could attract a lot of unwanted attention at just the wrong time. however, to the best of my knowledge, your rifle should be a nice, shiny (and deep) blue.

[Buntlineguy]

Du-Lite bluing will give the rifle the same shine that it has when going into the tank. I re-blued my no 1 Mk 3*. I first removed all bluing with rust and blue remover, then lightly buffed with Dremel tool. I did not use sanding discs or wheels. A brass wheel will get into tight places without over polishing. The only secret is to keep the same finish on the rifle. If it is dull, leave it dull and if it is very shiny keep it shiny. Mine came out better than you can imagine. No, I don't have pictures to post. Remember KISS (keep it simple stupid).

B

[Thunderbox]

Unless the woodwork is absolutely mint, its hardly worth re-bluing the metalwork - the rifle will look terrible. Many of the Long Lees coming out of South Africa are worn down to the white in the metal, and have typical faded woodwork. The ones that are just cleaned and oiled tend to find owners who appreciate their originality; the ones that have been reblued just go around and around the auctions unsold - even the parts are no good for other restorations.

[Beerhunter]

Firearms are just like any other antique where the rile of thumb is: "If in doubt - don't!"

As has been said, if you reblue your rifle you will destroy its value. I have lost count of the number of guns that I have rejected over the years because they have been refinished.

[RobD]

I agree with Beerhunter and Thunderbox. A worn silver patina can look very nice - indicative of the rifle having been handled over ~120 yrs. One circumstance which would justify re-bluing a Long Lee would be if someone else had done a truly awful refinish where nothing original remained.

[rescuerandy2]

Should have posted some photos for you to see what "cleaning" can do to a rifle. What say you folks now? Reblue or not. Thanks, Randy.

[Beerhunter]

The answer is still not. Unless you wish to devalue the rifle.

[RobD]

Is it just me? Or do those markings suggest manufacture in the Khyber Pass region rather than Enfield? In your opening post you say "Getting close to purchasing..." - personally, I would walk away from this one...
See the post entitled LEC 1 1898 to show the general idea of how the Victorian crown and Enfield stamps should look.