This feels weird, yet strangely good

[Cdn303]

So, I bought my first Mauser today. A Karabiner 98 manufactured in 1939 by Mauser Werke A.G, Berlin-Borsigwalde. It's a shame that bubba got to it, b/c, it's all matching but the bolt (all bolt parts match each other). However, I plan on restoring it this fall. Until I get some literature on mausers I've a couple of questions for you all.

What type of wood should I be looking for in a replacement stock/handguard? Walnut? Beech? Laminated? I've Googled '1939 manufactured k98' and seen rifles with laminated stocks, and walnut stocks. I think my rifle originally had a beech one as I can see the 'fish scales' normally associated with beech stocks.

The other parts that I require are:
the bolt disassembly disks
the lower band (I assume '39 rifles would have milled bands)
the upper band
band spring (how long would this be? 3 5/8"?)
bayonet stud (do I need a long or short one?)
bayonet stud pin
cleaning rod

Is this list correct? Pictures of your early war rifle would also help me a lot.

And now for the pictures that you've skipped all this reading to see.






Bubba had a lot of fun with the sandpaper



And now I get to go try to convince my Enfields, 91/30, SVT and M1917 to let it in the cabinet.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[Patrick Chadwick]

First, the book you really, really need to get is "Backbone of the Wehrmacht" by Richard D. Law.
From which you could learn that 243 was the manufacturer's code number for Mauser-Werke, Borsigwalde.

The laminated stocks were indeed made from beech. Either a beech-laminated or full walnut stock is acceptable for the period. I doubt that the sporterized stock you have there was ever the original stock, as it looks as if the bolt-take-down ring was never fitted and the cut-out for the sling attachment is also incomplete. My guess: it was an unfinished stock that was sporterized.

The simplest way to get all the parts you need is to look for a wallhanger as a parts donor. You would probably be able to get everything as individual parts, in time, but the cost would be considerable.

[jmoore]

I doubt that the sporterized stock you have there was ever the original stock, as it looks as if the bolt-take-down ring was never fitted and the cut-out for the sling attachment is also incomplete.

I dunno, it looks to me like the holes were filled and the sling recesses brutally sanded away! Look under the buttplate (is there one?) to see if there's any useful markings on the end of the stock. Also, there ought to be a number in the barrel channel, but you may not have enough forestock left.

With the bolt not matching, spending big money for restoration might not be economically sound, but Patrick Chadwick's suggestion about finding a donor wallhanger has merit. Probably cheaper than finding indivdual parts, and you will have trading fodder with the leftovers, esp. if the donor action can be used for something.

[Sarge]

Which stock is immaterial as long as it has a flat butt plate. Proper proofed to match the rec would also be nice.
The parts you list are all that should come with a complete stock assembly so you do Not want to buy them seperately - unless you get a stock w/o the bbl bands and hand guard, then you look for individual parts - also with the same proof as on the right side of the rec.
Why do you want to replace the bolt, looks like a matching assembly, unless again your are looking for a matching proofed one. What is the proof on the bottom of the handle on your bolt?
The idea of buying a complete rifle for parts is an unneccesary expense and will leave you with parts to sell. Buy only what you need and save a couple hundred $$ and the later hassel of selling parts. Besides if you found a rifle with the right parts you would have a correkt rifle that it would be stupid to part out!!!
Sarge

[jmoore]

Why do you want to replace the bolt, looks like a matching assembly, unless again your are looking for a matching proofed one. What is the proof on the bottom of the handle on your bolt?

Where does replacing the bolt get mentioned?

The idea of buying a complete rifle for parts is an unneccesary expense and will leave you with parts to sell. Buy only what you need and save a couple hundred $$ and the later hassel of selling parts. Besides if you found a rifle with the right parts you would have a correkt rifle that it would be stupid to part out!!!
Sarge

In actual fact I've bought rifles with bad/plugged bores for very little. Oddly, the rifle that hasn't been cut up but has been drilled and tapped badly also shows up from time to time. (Those usually are about free.) And since there's parts to sell or swap, the expense can be even less.

[Patrick Chadwick]

The idea of buying a complete rifle for parts is an unneccesary expense and will leave you with parts to sell. Buy only what you need and save a couple hundred $$

A couple hundred$$$ ??? I wrote wallhanger, not all-matching shooter!

[Cdn303]

The stock is the original to the rifle. There is numbers matching the receiver serial. jmoore wa right. The holes were filled in and sanded all to hell. I'll end up keeping it and add it to the conversation rack.

I have found (thanks to a CGN member) a source for a stock and band set and it does have the same proofing marks as the receiver.

[Calif-Steve]

Pick up correct parts here and there. I hate buying a "donor" rifle. Just hunt the gunshows. Fun times ahead.

[Cdn303]

So I've got a stock and band set on the way. I couldn't match the serial number (obviously) but I was able to match the WAA number. Thanks the all that helped out.

[Mentis]

Quite interesting how in 50 years we've come full circle. From chopping down $20 rifles to make cheap deer guns to putting them back original to make $400-$800 collectables...