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Thread: Early Inland Value - Stock Restore

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    Early Inland Value - Stock Restore

    I posted earlier about my grand dads Inland M1icon carbine. From what members tell me it is an early inland and it is mostly original besides the M2 in the lower receiver. Someone (I am assuming my grand dad) put a varnish on the stock. I really hated the way it looked because it was really shiny and scratched up. Forum members told me how to remove the shiny finish so I did it. Here are the pics. Let me know what you think. I am new to the carbine world so be gentle. lol. What can I put on the stock so it is the original finish? Thanks.























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    Stocks were originaly soaked in raw linseed oilicon for about 3 days. [ If I remember correctly]. Very nice looking wood and should be fantastic when finihed. Their are menbers here that restore stocks, I would wait to hear from one of them before going any farther. How did you remove old finish? GK
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    Thanks for the info Shady. I think it came out great. I tried denatured alcohol first but it did not work at all. I then tried Acetone and 0000 steel wool and it worked great to remove the finish. I was terrified to put acetone near the cartouches though. lol. But I took my time and it worked. I picked up some BLOicon but I am going to try and find some RLO today.

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    BLOicon is what I put on my CMPicon Garandicon and what was the recommended thing. But I've also hear Tung oil.

    I also heard that rags from BLOicon can spontaneously combust, so you have to treat them as such. I have no clue, but I just thought I'd throw it out there.

    Great looking job so far!

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    I've used acetone and steel wool on a really nasty SA stock I had on my Std Pro and I though it did a good job. I used BLOicon and just rubbed in numerous coats with an old tee shirt. I let it soak 5-6 hrs between coats. I didn't use steel wool because I did not want the shine. The last coat I rubbed of the excess and left the dull finish. Watch out for products that have additives! I found BLOicon in the paint department at Lowes in a qt. can. Raw linseed oil can be harder to find. My Std Pro now has an S-HB stock and hand guard that I had to steam to death to get most of the dents out of it. It cooked a lot of the oil out but it reoiled nicely.
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    STOP RIGHT NOW ! Before any more damage is done. That is a very early L.A Inland stock. I know, as a few years ago I sent one that hadn't been messed with to one of our most respected members who lives in Indiana. Will try and get him to comment or give me permission to show pics of something that is now his. Thanks for joining the forum and the good post. Mike

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    Do not put BLOicon or Tung oil on a carbine stock. For a Garandicon, that is ok. Never a carbine. Raw linseed oilicon only. Please.

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    Ok. I will return the BLOicon and go get some RLO. Is there anything I can put on the cartouches to make them stand out more?

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    Didn't know that sorry!!!!!

    What's the big difference between using BLOicon or tung oill than using RLO?

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    Do you plan to color the stock?
    If you are, Don't oil it before staining.
    By moving straight to the RLO application, you'll end up with a 'Natural Finish' stock.
    Wipe a spot with mineral spirits and look at while still wet, this will be the color of your stock if you decide to not color/stain the wood.

    Charlie-painter777

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