Orion7 springs arrived today!! Couple of questions......

[ABPOS]

OK, well first I have to say, the new safety spring and plunger set solved my problem. I can't seem to get it to stick any longer. Yay!!! Thank God. I think the plungers are a tad bit, now just a tiny amount, more rounded. Thus allowing a little more freedom of movement. At least it appears that way so far. I worked it over 30 times and couldn't get it to stick. It used to stick about once every 5 times.

Now, the two op slide springs he sent were 10-3/16" and 10-5/16". Is that first one good enough? Kind of irritating that it didn't hit the desired 10-1/4". Also, the ends of these springs had a triple coil (3 coils close together). I've never seen that. Is that OK?

Now, on to hammer springs. My current hammer spring (on Dad's Inland) is a hair shorter than 2-3/8". And the one I received is a hair bigger than 2-5/8". What is spec? Is the 2-5/8" one too long? I was thinking it would be wise to throw the new one in there. But I googled and saw that spec might possibly be 2-1/2" and not sure if that long one would create problems with cycling of action. I mean, I fix my op slide spring and then slow it down again with too stiff of a hammer spring. Is that possible? I might have to check the one on my other carbine.


Thank you for the help!

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[imarangemaster]

Either recoil spring should be fine. The problem starts when they get close to 10", in my experience. Count the coils on your dad's hammer spring. Early ones were shorter and had 22 coils. The upgraded ones have 26 coils and are longer. Do you still need the push button safety?

[emmagee1917]

The shape of the ends are a modern improvement. It allows the spring to compress in a more vertical column manner. This greatly reduces side pressure on the guide rods and inside tubes to allow a smoother , more friction free collapse .
Chris

[ABPOS]

Either recoil spring should be fine. The problem starts when they get close to 10", in my experience. Count the coils on your dad's hammer spring. Early ones were shorter and had 22 coils. The upgraded ones have 26 coils and are longer. Do you still need the push button safety?

Thank you. I don't need a safety, thank you for asking. The new spring and plunger has fixed it. Yay!!! Now I need to get either hammer spring back in. I'm about ready to cry over it. The trigger group was easier than this. Boooing....

[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

Use the slide spring guide to help compress the hammer spring. Aim it away from your windows, they sometimes like to go visit the walls.

I cheat, bought a tool many years back. Makes it almost too easy.

[emmagee1917]

And if you don't have the above tool , remember it goes in from the far side of the hammer , not through the little slot on the near side that most people would think.
Chris

[ABPOS]

Jim, I was thinking a tool like that would be really helpful!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Never seen one though. I did get it today on the second try. Last night I had rubber gloves on. I did it without them today and that might have helped. I do the cooking in my house, and I try to keep the gunk out of my food by keeping my hands clean. Long story, but the fact is, I've been on KP duty for the last 5 years. Anyways....

Thank you emmagee1917. I did try it through that slot once and then I thought, wait, it's too high like that. Then I took the spring off and found where the plunger needed to be to actually go in. And yeah, the right side low is the only place. Plus I saw a video on it yesterday.

But you guys still haven't told me which hammer spring I should use. Is the one that was in it too short? Or is the new one too long? If it's too long, do you think it would slow the action down? I know for a fact when we first got these things, my Dad's had a few FTF's. But I'm pretty sure that was before I broke the bolt down. I can always put the new one in though. But I still have not heard or seen a spec on how long it should be. Someone on the CMP said the spec has more to do with how much pressure it takes to compress than how long it actually is.

[painter777]

Every spare Type II (26.5) coil spring I have measures approx: 2-3/8"

New USGI Type II springs were made to spec of 2-1/2" long with a outside diameter of .280 (.280 = almost 9/32)
Type II hamer springs have a smaller gauge wire than used on the Type I , 22 coil spring.

The early Type I hammer springs had 22 coils, length of approx: 2.10" have a thicker gauge wire (but still a overall outside diameter of .280)

The later/longer Type II 26-1/2 coil spring was designed to ease up trigger pull and to lighten the springs resistance while cocking.

I'd try both the springs you have and see which feels the best to you when cocking and dry firing.

HTH,
Charlie-painter777

[ABPOS]

Every spare Type II (26.5) coil spring I have measures approx: 2-3/8"

New USGI Type II springs were made to spec of 2-1/2" long with a outside diameter of .280 (.280 = almost 9/32)
Type II hamer springs have a smaller gauge wire than used on the Type I , 22 coil spring.

The early Type I hammer springs had 22 coils, length of approx: 2.10" have a thicker gauge wire (but still a overall outside diameter of .280)

The later/longer Type II 26-1/2 coil spring was designed to ease up trigger pull and to lighten the springs resistance while cocking.

I'd try both the springs you have and see which feels the best to you when cocking and dry firing.

HTH,
Charlie-painter777

Thank you, that helps a great deal!!! I liked the trigger pull on the one it had currently. Very much. And it's measures about what you said. I think it is a hair less than 2-3/8" though.