Cast bullet loads??

[Patrick Chadwick]

The LEE factory crimp die seems to put a VERY heavy crimp on it, especially considering the 30 Carbine headspaces on the case mouth.

Then back it off a bit and lock the nut accordingly. With case crimping, I inspect the first rounds under a watchmakers eyeglass, and set the die so the the case mouth is barely tighter than parallel. Without the eyeglass, all you can see is a slight shine on the last fraction of a millimeter, where the crimp die has taken out the flare on the mouth.

To keep this kind of sensitive setting, my dies now have nuts with a locking grub screw. And a witness mark to show if the setting has shifted.

[USGI]

I had to return 450 rounds of commercial "new manufactured" carbine ammo because of too much crimp. I had trouble with the first box of 50 and then saw that they had way too much taper on them. On the ones I'm reloading myself, I only put .001" - .002" (at the very most) of crimp on them - and that's measured right at the very end of the case. I've never experimented with different weight bullets for reloading with rifles, but on my SA revolvers I'm pretty sure the heavier bullets hit a bit higher due to heavier recoil - that's at 20 -25 yards or so. Sounds like you are having some fun out there on patrol. - Bob

[imarangemaster]

I had my seating/taper crimp die set with NO taper, and was relying solely on the LEE factory crimp die. I noticed it was crimping heavy, and backed it off a little. I think I will dispense with the FCD and use the taper as you suggest.

[USGI]

I still use the FCD after the seater/crimp die, but only have it adjusted in about 1/4 - 3/8 of a turn. That gives me the .001" - .002" crimp I want. The setting depends on the thickness of the brass cases that you are using. You should be able to get it "right" with or without the FCD. Let us know how the next batch turns out. - Bob

[imarangemaster]

I finally got a good setting: I use the taper crimp/seating die to seat, still with no taper, then just barely engaging the LEE factory crimp die. Does a perfect job without excessive crimp. I also have some Rainier Ballistics plated 110s coming from Midway USA, that I will load with about 14.7 grains of WW296. That should be close to the Remington 110 FMJs and JSPs I use for duty ammo. I'll use those for "practice" and the 115 lead for "plinking". When I load up the plated, I will post some comparison pictures.

[imarangemaster]

Well I now have two differerent loads I have worked up:

First the 115 Bear Creek Moly bullet over 11 Grains of Alliant 2400. Because of the fatter ogive, I have to seat them to a shorter OAL than FMJ. This load cycles the weapon 100% of the time, feeds flawlessly from USGI 15 and 30 rounders, and seems to shoot as tight a group at 25 yards as the R-P 110 FMJ factory loads. At 75 to 100 yards it bounces pinecones and can very well. It shoots a tad lower than R-P 110 FMJs.

Second it the one I am really exceited about.
110 grain Rainier Ballistics copper plated bullets over 14.6 grains of WW296, The bullet looks like a FMJ, and has a rebated base. It loads the the same OAL as the FMJ loads. I haven't shot this one yet, but I am betting it will duplicate the 110 FMJs. The best thing is that they run less than $20/1,000 more than the Bear Creek

From left to right:

Remington 110 grain FMJ factory load, 110 Rainier Ballistics / WW296 load, 115 Bear Creek moly coated with 11 Grains of 2400.

[imarangemaster]

One of the best things about my two M1 Carbines is, that if you reload, they can be fairly cheap to shoot (especially if you cast your own). This means you can shoot them more, have more fun, and become more proficient. My two ARs on the other hand, are expensive as heck to reload, and loade ammo is either non-existent or back through the roof if you find it at all. I have 1,000+ rounds of 5.56, but won't be doing much plinking or practice with it!