M1a1 Question

[gene of oregon]

Tomarrow I'm going to be looking closer at a M1a1 that's for sale at a shop. Yesturday just before closing I had it in hand and just had a shot time to look it over and we agreed to talk tomarrow. I've gotten pretty savy on carbines but know nothing about what to look for in the M1a1 stock and componants. And I know there are a lot of aftermarket stuff out there. The receiver and barrel are Saginaw. barrel has a small import stamp on the bottom of barrel, it has a type 3 band and some markings inside of cast iron butt plate. Also a circle P on grip. No ordnance escutcheons. I know most here don't like Harrisons reference book, but on page 175 he discribes arsenal conversions and arsenal rebuilds which I think it probably is. I'm going to check my other references (war baby & Riesch) tonight but wanted to through this out to you guys. I guess my bigest question is what dollar figure is it worth with an original M1a1 stock and metal or reproduction?? What to look fore?? Wish I could have been able to bring it home to add pic's. Any help here is appreciated, Thanks Gene

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[JimF4M1s (Deceased)]

Inside the buttplate should look like this. The number on the right can be any of 1 through 12. That was the position of the casting for that plate.

[frankderrico]

Gene, original M1A1 stock decent condition, either type 1 or 2 worth at least $1,500. Rifle should be Inland, so take that into acount. Stock would have I.O. stamped in barrel chanel near the bridge and I.R. with CC on bottom of grip, circle P could be on back of the stock (T1) highwood, or grip (T2 ) low wood. Repro stock about $200 so be sure what you are buying and pics would help.

Regards.....Frank

[jimb16]

The bottom of the pistol grip MIGHT have an R.I./3 plus the X-cannon or it could have just the X-cannon. Where is the circle P? Side or front of the pistol grip? Don't go by anything in Harrisons book. He has so many errors in that section that it is unforgivable. Many of the characteristics that he claims are from rebuilds are really from WWII production and NOT rebuilds. Check the leather too. It should be smooth and stretched with not cuts to fit. On originals, the rivets are hollow and can be either brass or steel. Later replacements are sometimes solid rivets. Look at the area where the welds are on the frame. They should be welded, not brazed. The nut on the bottom should have two notches in it. If it doesn't, it is a repop.

[shadycon]

Also check to see if it has been altered for an M2 selector. Cut on inside and bridge removed or cut down.GK

[gene of oregon]

It does have the M2 cut Gene

[frankderrico]

Gene, I have fixed quite a few originals with the selector cut out. They also made reproduction's with the M2 cut out. With the information you have gotten so far you should be able to determine if it is original vs. repro. If not try and post some pics for us, or we could post some pics of originals for you.

Regards.....Frank

[gene of oregon]

I'm back from checking the carbine out. It's amasizing how something can look from the out side and totaly different from the inside. Having an m1a1 folding stock first gets you excided thinking you've just found something special. Then you start looking futher and find what's really there. Like I had said the reciever and barrel were Saginaw (so-so condition) stock wood, metal and leather was in nice condition. When I started braking it down is when things changed. Slide was a winchester type VI, bolt-inland (round), compleat triger housing (which the other day looked wierd) was from some comerical carbine. No stamps on the wood except arsenal stamp AAR, inside channel was a disaster, someone had carved out (with what looks like a pocket knife) an m2 cut and a grove on the right side for the disconnect lever. Metal and leather looked great, brass rivets, welded not brazed, butt plate looked like pic's from JimF4M1s post. I'm wondering if the metal might be original?? Anyway this has been a really good hands on education on M1A1's, even tho this one was a disaster. Appreciate the info. and help from you guys, Thank You, Gene PS the shop owner said he gave $185 for it

[shadycon]

What is he asking for it? A few years ago I gave $800 for one in similar shape with 6 digit Inland reciever and barrel. A little work and I now have a very nice M1a1. I would offer $500-$600 for it, average price for a mixmaster. Tell him you would pay more if stock was not butchered up!GK

[gene of oregon]

Shadycon
I'm really not that interested now. I have four mixmasters (3 imports, 1 non) 2 close to all correct and 1 orignal. If it wasn't for the trigger housing and carved up inner stock I would have made him an offer. He has another guy in line that will probably give him $800 Just don't want to stick 5-6 hundred in it right now. I'm working on a 1911a1 us gov. and will need the cash. Gene