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Thread: No 1MK 111* forend draws-too far gone to repair?

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  1. #11
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    Thank you to everyone for so much input.
    Cheers

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    A Collector's View - The SMLE Short Magazine Lee Enfield 1903-1989. It is 300 8.5x11 inch pages with 1,000+ photo’s, most in color, and each book is serial-numbered.  Covering the SMLE from 1903 to the end of production in India in 1989 it looks at how each model differs and manufacturer differences from a collecting point of view along with the major accessories that could be attached to the rifle. For the record this is not a moneymaker, I hope just to break even, eventually, at $80/book plus shipping.  In the USA shipping is $5.00 for media mail.  I will accept PayPal, Zelle, MO and good old checks (and cash if you want to stop by for a tour!).  CLICK BANNER to send me a PM for International pricing and shipping. Manufacturer of various vintage rifle scopes for the 1903 such as our M73G4 (reproduction of the Weaver 330C) and Malcolm 8X Gen II (Unertl reproduction). Several of our scopes are used in the CMP Vintage Sniper competition on top of 1903 rifles. Brian Dick ... BDL Ltd. - Specializing in British and Commonwealth weapons Specializing in premium ammunition and reloading components. Your source for the finest in High Power Competition Gear. Here at T-bones Shipwrighting we specialise in vintage service rifle: re-barrelling, bedding, repairs, modifications and accurizing. We also provide importation services for firearms, parts and weapons, for both private or commercial businesses.
     

  3. #12
    Legacy Member paulseamus's Avatar
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    For the stock reinforcing wire search for the following on eBay Australia "SMLE No 1 Mk 3 .303 L1A1 Stock Repair Reinforcing Wire"

    AUD$13.99 plus postage for a 30cm length.

    carla_mouse has a current listing and she ships worldwide.

    I have purchased the same product from her in the past.

    Cheers

    Paul
    Last edited by paulseamus; 01-02-2013 at 11:45 PM.

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  6. #13
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    make a patch and glue it in with modern aero type wood glue.
    NO...... Wood glue is wood glue. Don't use accra glass or any epoxy

    Forgive me Mr. Laidlericon, but anything I have researched as being an aero type glue appears to be a resin w/ hardener (aerolite) which sounds like that acraglass material. So are you saying the standard white-yellow glue used in standard furniture making will suffice? I dont want to do the repairs with the wrong adhesive , so I figured it wouldn't hurt to ask you to clarify that one more time. Any preferred brand? Thanks a million.
    Cheers

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    We're waiting for that "sharp and to the point" answer Peter !

  8. #15
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    Right, here it is............... When I say aero spec wood glue, I mean aero strength wood glue. I can't tell you what we use here because it wouldn't make any sense to your local hardware shop but I'd just go in and ask for some wood glue and follow the instructions. That's all I have ever used on the zillion wood patches that I have done since I was an apprentice, starting on 7th January 1963.................... God, that's 50 years ago yesterday and I'm STILL learning

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  10. #16
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    Thanks Peter, so 50 years ago you were just like me, a beginner, asking questions to people with a lot more knowledge and experience ,and hoping for a CIVIL answer !

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    Do not use Accaglass, or any of the fast cure epoxies that you can get at home despot. they never harden hard and show up in the cracks. Good glues will match out with the finish.

    These are all top of the line products
    1. Resorcinol (Weldwood, Borden, etc.) . . . an excellent two-part waterproof glue. Mix by weight is 4 parts liquid to 1 part powder. Resorcinol glues require excellent joints and considerable clamping pressure to ensure good joints. Temperatures must be above 70° for a reliable cure. It is considered to be the most durable and best proven glue in the world.

    2. FPL-16A . . . a 10:1 mix epoxy . . . tricky to mix in small amounts. (Since it is a white glue an inspector might mistake it for an unacceptable white carpenter’s glue.)

    a. Aerolite, a urea-formaldehyde resin. Good but tricky to use. The Britishicon built bombers using this glue in WW-II. Mix powder with water to form paste. Apply paste to one surface and brush on a catalyst hardener on the other surface. If you forget to brush on the catalyst you may never realize it until a joint fails later.

    b. Plastic Resin (Weldwood, etc.) is also a urea-formaldehyde glue.
    Marty
    Badger Ordnance

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  13. #18
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    Thank you all.
    Cheers

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    "Titebond" seems to be the company that sells some of the better wood glues around.
    Last edited by Rumpelhardt; 01-19-2013 at 12:36 AM.

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