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Possibly all original 1903A3?
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Thank You to garrettbragg12 For This Useful Post:
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05-27-2013 08:23 PM
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Looks good to me. Can't read the barrel date month....should be about a 2-43. Take it apart very carefully and clean it with gun oil or Blue wonder....don't use steel wool just an abrasive pad. Clean the stock with DA and give it a few coats of Raw linseed oil. Put it back together carefully and use the proper screwdrivers on all screws. If you use an improper screwdriver, you will bugger the screws badly. If you raise the rear sight you should see the R, the buttplate or cubby door will have an R on the inside and the band spring has one also. . The follower and spring are also R marked. Regards, Rick.
Last edited by sakorick; 05-27-2013 at 11:05 PM.
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Originally Posted by
garrettbragg12
The barrel date is a 3-43! Thank you so much for your input! I'll check those areas! Do you have any idea what the cartouches near the trigger guard stand for?
M1/M3 Carbine: late '44 Inland
M1 Garand: late '44 Springfield
Those are Technical Inspectors marks. From what I've gleaned, Inspectors were assigned numbers and squares, triangles or circles. I noticed that inspector 77's mark is in the wood and on the action of your rifle. He was a square! The FJA cartouche is the final acceptance by LTC Frank J Atwood the Ordnance District Commander at the time(he really never inspected anything) and the Ordnance cartouche is the Army's acceptance mark. The circle P on the wrist is the proof mark that shows it was test fired and passed. On German Mausers these are called Waffenamts and were a real fancy WaA with the inspector's number under a stylized eagle. The British proof marks are also fancy letters under a crown. Inspection marks are interesting pieces of the rifle's history and a study unto itself. Regards, Rick.
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The metal finish looks uniform to me, so it may have been refinished a some point, which would only take place in an overhaul. The stock, for an early M1903A3 is in very good shape and I think you $650 you got a good deal.
People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf.
--George Orwell
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To remove the lite rust use WD40 or Kriol whichever and LIGHLY rub it out with 0000 steel wool or even a rag an the tip of your finger.
For the heavy rust use our search function and look for Electrolysis. There was a good discussion alittle while ago on the subject.
Unfortunately you will have speckling left when the rust is removed .
The cleaning kit in the stock is a nice bonus....
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Denatured Alcohol...
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