PU scope zeroing

[SVT-40]

Stupid question on how i should zero in my PU scope...

I currently have the vertical dial to point at zero to bullseye at 100 yards.

So my question is should i re-set the dial to point at 1 for firing at 100 yards then turn the dial to 2 for 200 yards, 3 for 300 yards and so on ?

Information

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[mike radford]

You can do it that way or you can rezero it by setting it to 1 on the elevation turret and use the elevation screws on the mount to make the correction, then rezero. This is the proper way to do it but it will be much easier to loosen the turret screws and then turn the elevation ring to 1. If you plan on using lots of different ammos you will end up doing a lot of zeroing. Also, bear in mind that when you go to 3 for 300 meters, again it will be ammo dependant and you probably will not be using WW2 Soviet ammo so you will likely have to make very fine adjustments +/- on that 3 like 2.95, 3.1, whatever when you out to other ranges. There is not much chance you will be right on by simply setting the turret to 3.

[Comrade Mike]

For precision work, 1,2,3 calibration will not work, it will get you to minute of man no problem. Might need to dial a little more finely for the best accuracy.

[mil-surp60]

What i love about those pu scopes, you fire a shot put the cross hairs on that hole with adjusters your dead on that target till you move to another , how they did it ww2 russia and still to this day, i zeroed mine at 100 with the dial on one , but like was mentioned above diff ammo shoots diff , i love the ease they have in putting you on target by just moving the crosshairs to that hole from previous shot ,shooting long range it is very usefull ,may look strange in scope to have cross hair over to one side or other but once you get it you will hit what you aim at depending on wind speed and range , i can almost put them in same hole useing that method at my range with spam can ammo with the always occasional flyer you get with the spam can surplus.

[vintage hunter]

I'm going to have to disagree with you there mil-surp60, that ain't the way the Russians did it. The correct way to zero a mismatched or put together PU sniper is to first mechanically center the reticle in the tube then make adjustments using the two set screws in the base for elevation and by filing or shimming the ''feet'' on the mount until it shoots center horizontally. Zeroing by using the windage and elevation adjustment on the scope alone will result in an off center aiming post. If there's one thing I can't stand it's a canted or off center reticle.
Complete step by step instructions on zeroing a PU can be found at www. mosinnagant.net. Check it out, good info.

[Patrick Chadwick]

cross hairs

Cross-hairs? I wish it was! The view is a 3-bar setup,

mmmm /\ mmmmm
............m
............m

and with my dodgy eyes it is guesswork placing the top of the vertical point.

[mil-surp60]

wELL , I would think anyone on this thread would not have to be told they have a 3post system in pu scopes, but since we have to be all technical i guess we can call it three posts to me they are all crosshairs in scopes just a word not trying to explain to those who prolly allready know they have three posts like the mauser scopes are similar ,and yes lotta times if they had a miss they just moved that 3 POST reticle to where last impact was and hit that target. SEE jude law in enemie at the gates do just that. You forget in battle scopes do get knocked off zero and that is how they used em when that happened.Move it to last impact and refire, you will hit that target second shot.Wind drift can move the bullet as well at long range, again move center post to last impact point, dead on hit. I have used this at the 1000 yard mark at the milsurp rifle comps in knob creek ky to very good results.. Can almost keyhole em at times by just simply putting my center post on that hole and fire.

[mike radford]

Cross-hairs? I wish it was! The view is a 3-bar setup,

mmmm /\ mmmmm
............m
............m

and with my dodgy eyes it is guesswork placing the top of the vertical point.

Patrick, You are in Germany. This is the normal reticule for Europe at the time. The Germans used it, the Soviets used it. I prefer a cross hair but having shot about 40 Soviet snipers, maybe 50, it is very doable. That does not include shooting many German snipers, like another 20. You get used to it. The reticule allows range estimation as well, like the German scopes.

Many of us shoot these rifles with good ammo and get MOA +/- accuarcy. These rifles are serious snipers and anyone who thinks otherwise is asleep. The Germans found out the hard way and used them as did sniper Sepp A. He was not happy when he was sent German sniper school and got a HT, retured to the eastern front, found that his precious PU he had entrusted to a friend was lost as was his friend. Read Sniper on the Eastern Front. Hey, they did it that way. It has advantages. Compare a PE, or PEM to a M73b1 and they blow the US scope to heck. Even a PU is far superior. It is more weather resistent. more light gathering, more magnification, range estimation, trajectory compensation, etc..

[mil-surp60]

Agreed , like i said i have used the move the reticle to last point of impact refire to outstanding results with handloads, milsurp ammo is quite good as well if you get a good lot but never as consistent as handloaded, mine are deadly accurate for such a simple design and such an old rifle, but they do both have near mint bores as well.