Looking for a dimensions on a No7

[bigduke6]

Anyone with a No7 (UK one) I,m after one dimension of the ejector position, need a rough measurement from the rear of the breeching up ring to the centre of the ejector. (centre between the two screws)

May sound a strange request but its for a project I,m doing, (all will be revealed in good time) in the meantime just trying to figure if its possible without too much messing.

Information

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[bigduke6]

Thought I,d add this to show what I,m wanting, the pics below are of my own .303, that was a bubba repro 4T, the rear screw hole was well off for the bracket and the only cure was to drill out, tap, plug and re-drill and tap, after all the work ( I used some of the info Peter provided in his making up a usable sniper regarding setting up the bracket etc) it was sand blasted and parkerised will get a coat of suncorite when it arrives (this week) but with all this work in a sensitive area it was never going to be .303 again so .22 it is , like I say more to follow when its all finished, but was wanting to make it a repeater and use a No7 bolthead, although the ones from the USA never made it past Miami, I managed to get one in the UK a (a bare bones No7 Bolt head) rarer than Rocking horse S**t but with a big thanks from Phil Rose It arrived and am making the missing bits.

As it has the pad close to the where the ejector on a No7 would be I,m looking at making an ejector but need to know the rough measurement of centre of the ejector to the rear of the breeching up ring, the other thing is with a scope fitted may need to fit a reflector plate as I don't want to have the spent case hitting the scope.


Any way some pics, after the sand blast and Home Parkerising

[Simon P]

If you are passing anywhere near Woodford you are welcome to come and take any dimensions you want from my one.

Or email me a sketch of the parts you want measured & I will put the dimensions on it for you.

Been after one for a few years now and managed to acquire one a few weeks ago, the only down side it had lost its original magazine, but will have that issue resolved very shortly.

[No4Mk1(T)]

Here you go. I think this is what your poking for:
Looks like 1.80in approximately.



Going from the center of the ejector screw hole looks like 1.380in.



Sorry for the iPhone pics. Batteries in my camera are dead.

[tr63]

HI, my Brit. No.7 has a 2 9/16" distance from the front edge of the receiver to the center of the ejector opening .To make your bolt head work on a standard No.4 bolt body you will have to cut the main body on a No.4 down by 1.6 inches. lengthening the internal threads in the bolt. The front of the firing pin must be off to make it into a striker. The rear of the firing pin will need to be shortened and rethreading it . This is needed because of the 7's bolt head long length . You will need to make up the extractors and firing pin for the bare bones bolt head. You will also need to come up with the correct No.7 .22 cal.barrel .The bolt body ,cocking piece and the firing pin are hardened steel . The thread sizes are British and the taps and threading dies are not easy to come by ,if at all !! I purchased my No.7 as a barrelled action only with no other parts.I was able to find a bare No.7 bolt head. I altered a standard No.4 bolt body to the correct shortened length for a No.7 . A U.S. 7/16" sae. coarse tap can be used to deepen the internal threads in the body of the bolt . You need to use a great deal of caution when using the tap and a good grade of cutting oil , as the hardness of the steel is almost as hard as that of the tap and you can break the tap in the blink of your eye!! The tap will actually make a squealing noise !! Do not forget to counter bore the threads to allow the bolt head to enter the bolt body and screw in so that it fits flush and only TURNS ten degrees past the correct index or less . To make a standard length firing pin work for the now shortened bolt you will have to cut off the front part ahead of the area where firing pin tool engages on the firing pin. Be sure to square it off, as this is the surface that will strike the firing pin located in the No.9 bolt head. Next you need to shorten the firing pin threads that screw into cocking piece and rethread it , is too long to fit the now shortened bolt body. If you do not have the correct British threading die you can use a standard American sae. 1/4"x28 die to thread the shortened firing pin . Now you need to re-tap the threads in the cocking piece to match the threads on the rear of the firing pin . Again remember the cockig piece is very hard and you can break the tap !! You can draw the temper from the bolt body and the cocking piece to make the steel softer and much easier to tap. But you must re-heat treat both of them to the proper hardness for the rifle to be safe to use !! UNLESS YOU KNOW HOW TO CORRECTLY HEAT TREAT STEEL I would not suggest you undertake it !! The use of the American sae taps and die sizes listed will work as they are as close to the British sizes you will get without paying an arm and a leg for something you are only going use for this build if you can even find them! Before you the alter the bolt I would intall the .22cal. barrel and alter the bolt to fit the breech face of the barrel to insure the correct head space. You say you want make a repeater do you have the No.7 .22 cal mag. body and the 5 round mag. insert so it can be used as a repeater ? The best .22 cal. conversion and the easiest to to do is convert it to a No.9. You re-line a standard No.4 303. barrel to .22 cal and use a standard No. 9 bolt head, use a standard No.4 bolt , cut off the front part of the firing pin . No re-threading , tapping or re-heat,etc. Plus you do not need to add a ejector as found on the No.7 British trainer. I still need the extractors and the ejector for my No.7 bolt. If you happen to have them for sale or know of some one that has them for sale please let me know ,Thanks.

[bigduke6]

Excellent, That's the one No4Mk1(T) just gives me an idea if to go ahead, need to think outside the box a bit on this one, definitely a one off thanks for the pics also, may give others an idea what I was on about.

Simon P, thanks for the offer, will still drop in sometime as I,m working down that way ( Tilbury )

[bigduke6]

Thanks for the run down tr63, I,m aware of the difficulties involved, thats the reason regarding the measurement, in fact just emailing a forum member who has helped out with some parts etc, and said as you have may be leave this based on a No9 (have the bits)

If I go ahead with the No7 bolt that's the only part I,m using regarding the No7.

[Peter Laidler]

Thinking on my feet here Big Fella, I don't think that there's a shortage of used and unused No7 bodies or barrelled actions. What there IS a shortage of is/are the parts that make up the remainder. Or those with the mechanical expertise/nouse to make the remaining parts. Bolt heads are available as I understand it albeit they're in the US and the ejector is an absolute doddle to make. Firing pins - likewise. The body at that point is bog standard 1 notch above mild steel but feel in my bones that (and apologies for this.......) No4T's measurements aren't ones that I'd be using as gospel. Tooooo rudimentary!

Food for thought?

TR63. Making the extractor and the cartridge supporting spring should pose no broblem. They are simple hand/bench fitting projects, as is the annealing, making, hardening and tempering of the support spring from a piece of suitable spring steel

[bigduke6]

Understand what your saying Peter, but having lost a lot of cash regarding the parts that were made in the USA it leaves me a bit skint, just like to point out this is no fault of anyone involved in the parts etc, just the thieving toerag at Miami.

The body in the post above is one I,ve done some work on to improve the aesthetics, its not meant to be a No7 build but was an idea to use the No7 bolthead only, like you say the rest is no problem. Lot of work but something different, and before I forget the bracket is one of DRP,s (Thanks Rog)

The measurement was to give me an idea of were the ejector lay so I can.... anyway , to go ahead and build it based on a No9 is a far easier option, but that's plan B.

[Peter Laidler]

I'd be making what you've got into a very saleable and attractive de-act with a cheapo bracket so you can keep the real McCoy of course - and starting again on the No7 project with a readily (?) available ex BSA No7 barrelled action that someone said came from the remains of P-H - or wherever

Just me thinking out aloud as I'm prone to do occasionally