Rebuilt draws, but now trigger guard issues.

[Cdn303]

Hello all,

So I've just finished rebuilding the draws on my No5. While doing that, I also smoothed out the back end of the foreend....

It started like this. Bearing only on the two areas outlined red. Now the whole of the area under the tie strap bears evenly.


...So stock fits tight with no movement front and back. It sits so the barrel is centered in the channel. The stock also sits "across the internal 'shelf' " (as per Milsurps Knowledge Library - Worn draws in your No1, 4 or 5 fore-end .... (by Peter Laidler) ).

My issue is now there is a small gap between the underside of the stock and the top of the trigger guard. What do I do here?

Secondly, the hole for the front trigger guard screw and bushing has moved back a little. Can I slowly file the hole forward till it fits?

Information

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[Thunderbox]

To be honest, it sounds like you have taken too much off the rear and from the inside of the forend, leaving it a bit undersized.

If the trigger guard has a gap above it, it means that the bearing surfaces of the receiver have been relieved too much. If a rifle like that comes in, there is usually no alternative but to start with another forend - otherwise you have to find a way to patch and raise all of the horizontal bearing surfaces.

[Peter Laidler]

I agree part-way with TBox but don't really understand your description of the trigger guard problem. Maybe you could elaborate and we could both have a rethink about that bit. The problem you have made for yourself is that you patch the draws to bring the fore-end tightly back to what you've got. And NOT re-configure what you've already got at the back - or you end up with the wrong geometry!!

[Cdn303]

I'll try to explain this a little better.

So the old draws were toast. In addition, the rear face of the stock only beared on the two areas outlined above. There was a gap everywhere else.

So as part of rebuilding the draws, I worked the to raised spots on the rear face of the stock down until the entire rear face of the stock below the tie strap beared on the socket. I did this using a block and sandpaper, taking a couple of passes and trying the fit, and so on until the even bearing.

So what I have is the stock bearing on the receiver:
1.at the front of the receiver around the front trigger guard screw, back the 1.8 inches
2.the radial area under the barrel reinforce
3.evenly across the rear face of the stock below the tie-strap
4.on the draws
5.it also sits up against the underside of the action, like pictured here

-there is no interaction between the stock and receiver from the front area where it should bear (as per #1) and the draws

For some reason photobucket is not liking my edits and I have a meeting to go to. I'll fix the pictures when I get back

But now the stock has moved back a few thousandths. If I fit the trigger guard without the bushing the front trigger guard screw fits fine. When I install the bushing it doesn't sit flat on the bottom of the receiver.
I don't know if you can see, but the hole in the stock and the screw hole in the receiver don't quite line up.
[IMG][/IMG]

Should I file the hole forward a little till it lines up? Or should I glue a piece of veneer on the rear face of the stock and cut the draws a wee bit more?

Also, since the stock now sits up where it is supposed to I have a few thousandths gap between the rear end of the trigger guard and the stock. It's hard to explain. The stock is not tight between the receiver and trigger guard as per the arrow.

The gap is along this part of the trigger guard.


Should I relieve the area and glue in a piece and recut it tight?

[Thunderbox]

You've taken a bit too much off the rear face of the forend; not only does this take the trigger guard screw hole out of alignment but, because the trigger guard bedding is wedge-shaped, its also loosed the seating of the trigger guard.

Probably the only way to get everything to fit again is to now shim the rear of the forend.

To be honest, the original bearing fit at the the rear of the forend was typical of most No1/No4s, and was probably just fine as it was. So long as there is roughly equivalent left/right bearing to hold the forend straight, it doesn't really seem to require 100% bearing by area.

[Cdn303]

Thanks Tbox.

I got to thinking about this last night in bed and came up with the same conclusion about having removed to much. I'll go digging through the shop and find a piece of veneer to glue to the back. There wasn't even pressure points on the back. Thus the stock was twisted to the one side at the tip.

I'd also like to say thanks to everyone who has helped me in this post and my other one too. This is my first rebuild/stock fitting attempt. The knowledge that I've gleaned from you all has helped a lot. Hopefully my next project, a No4 that has lost the bear point at the tip, will go more smoothly.

[Peter Laidler]

Surely, if the fore-end was twisted at the tip, then that's something totally different.......... That's warped! As I was taught many years ago. There's onl;y two sorts of wood. That which hasn't warped and that which hasn't warped - yet!