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Thread: 'Alternative' No4 Mk2 sight picture

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    'Alternative' No4 Mk2 sight picture

    I am about to take a recently acquired No4 mk2 to a 600yd match, and I'm considering an 'alternative' sight picture. I know the standard is the 'ball on a seal's nose' or 'pumpkin on a post', but I can't seem to get along with it. My vision is better than 20/20, and I smoke the foresight to reduce glare, but I can't seem to find a consistent elevation. It's really hard to tell if I've got a gap, a 'flat tyre', or if I'm covering the target!

    What I've discovered in dry firing is that I can use the top of the sight ears as an elevation marker, while using the post for windage, keeping the target in the middle like the centre of an imaginary 'T'. Has anybody tried anything similar? My concern is I'd have to adjust about 10 MOA up to compensate for the low hold, and the rifle already shoots low!

    Not looking for advice on fundamentals here, I'm an experienced competition shooter, this is just my first foray into the world of the front sight post in competition. I've used them for plinking, and my normal competion irons are of the 'globe' or 'ring' type. I'd just like to know if anyone else has tried using the enfield sights in this way, and to what degree of success!

    Any thoughts appreciated...
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    I suggest make the black on the target into a tin-hat by stapling a piece of white paper over the lower half. Makes all the difference to me.

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    I use the Lolly Pop Method, I know the elevation at each distance when the front post is aimed at the bottom of the black on a McQueen's target.
    Regards Simon

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    I remember tin hats from when I first learned with the CCF, unfortunately they won't let me modify the 600yd target during the match, or else I might be tempted to space the rings out a bit! I'm OK with the elevation adjustments. I sight in at 200yds (the limit of my local range) but won't be able to try 600 until the match itself. I've got the ballistics tables, but they're no substitute for actual rounds down range. I'm hoping I don't have to crank the sights so far up that I lose my cheek weld! I don't really have time to get a taller front sight post either, but that would defeat the purpose of my alternative sight picture if it gets too close to the height of the front sight ears.

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    Beg pardon, that should read smaller front sight post, and it would ruin my odd sight picture if it got too far below the ears as well!

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    Quote Originally Posted by RobD View Post
    I suggest make the black on the target into a tin-hat by stapling a piece of white paper over the lower half. Makes all the difference to me.
    This might not be possible in a competition match where every one has to shoot a standard target.

    Using the foresight ears to judge elevation would work well, provided they sight outside of the black; otherwise you still have the problem as first described. Aiming off the bull, onto a more clearly defined bottom edge can be good as long as you know the actual dimension from the centre of the bull to your actual new aiming mark. It all goes pear-shaped though when a target of unknown dimensions is put up.

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    I Have difficulty using a 6 oclock hold. I decided to use a center hold. It was hard to see the top of the sight post against the bull, I applied white paint with a toothpick. I dip the toothpick into the paint and then roll it across the front top edge of the sight. If the post is square this leaves a small white bar that stands out in the center of the bull. Some sights get a small dot applied. My verticle oval groups turned into round groups. I don't claim this is a good idea for everyone. It worked for me. The clubs around here shoot at 200 or 300 yards, I have not shot at 600 but the bull should be roughly the same moa at any distance.

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    Yes, I use bright orange paint on my rifle musket and Maynard carbine with a centre hold, it works a treat.

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    If its a round black bull, I use a blob of white Tipex/corrector fluid on top of the sight blade in order to create a thin white line. This allows me to keep the same zero as for Tin Hat and Fig 11 targets.

    On a couple of rifles i have very fat Parker Hale (?) sight blades that are about three or four times the width of a standard blade. With these, you can whiten the entire back of the sight blade - which you can then use to get a "Tin Hat" sight picture by completely obscuring the bottom half of the round bull. This works very well, as the human eye seems quite good at assessing what a complete semi-circle should look like.

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    Sight at 3pm or just off....easier to pick the elevation, allow for the windage.

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