One more n°32 MkI scope, but this is mine

[Lou Cypher]

Thanks Gentlemen for your advices. I guess that I succeed in.
I tightened the lock nut a bit more than I was doing, than yes, the setting of the grat is easier.
I cross checked on a closer chimney, and the tip of the pointer is rotating on one axis.
Next step is to get a bracket.

[Peter Laidler]

If you leave the graticle like this, it is in the centre of the optical axis of the telescope and it is here that you will get the best optical definition of the image.

This is the position that the graticle should be when the telescope is fitted to the rifle. This is what you should aim to achieve when you are building a replica No4T or fitting a telescope and bracket to a telescope-less No4T. And it is this that you should get when you fit your matched telescope and bracket to your No4T. But in real life, it doesn't happen like this so when we are fitting brackets we allow a SMALL tolerance left and right and a slightly larger tolerance up and down. This is because because it is a moving wire telescope, the graticle already moves 60 minutes of angle - or one degree - up and down to cater for the range variation and therefore greater optical abberation as the tip of the post arcs across the curvature of the lenses.

A bit complicated and long winded but what Lou shows is the perfect image you should achieve.

[Surpmil]

Good job on centering the reticule. Looks like the scope tube has been bead blasted and then just painted over. You might want to get it phosphated and then painted.

[Beerhunter]

I have never needed the "third hand" with my Mk.1. Just take the advice given here and ensure that the scope/rifle are held firmly in a Workmate or similar.

BTW, I also have an Houghton & Butcher and it has been treated the same as yours, that is to say painted (With a wall-paper brush by the look of it.)

[Peter Laidler]

A hard bake-on paint over a fine bead blasting usually lasts the course. After all, this is what happens to the brass parts whether the main tube is phosphated or not.

Another little ploy in zeroing Mk1's and 2's is to (ALWAYS bore sight first of course) and then totally ignore the markings on the drum and zero the rifle using the grat as a foresight don't forget together with the formula C=D+R. When it's zeroed in, just note the linear position of the reverse headed lead screw. Rotate drum with lead screw to indicate the range at which you zeroed the rifle, hold the drum there and gently turn the leadscrew so that it aligns exactly to the position that it was. Simple!

[Beerhunter]

Another little ploy in zeroing Mk1's and 2's is to (ALWAYS bore sight first of course)

Initially I didn't do that. "How far out can it be?", I thought. So far out for the first (and only) round fired to impact just a few feet from the top of the stop butt. (It's a DA range - fortunately.) In retrospect it was lucky that it shot so high because the windage was so far out it would have had a good chance of hitting the target to the right of me. I stopped there and then and took it home for bore-sighting - using the stock fence at the bottom of our garden.

[Surpmil]

A hard bake-on paint over a fine bead blasting usually lasts the course. After all, this is what happens to the brass parts whether the main tube is phosphated or not.

Yes, especially a "self-phosphating" one like Suncorite, but a good paint is hard to find these days, at least over here in NA. A good phosphating makes even average paints very durable though, as the the paint penetrates the crystalline coating of the phosphating and bonds superbly.

Of course I know you know all that Peter!