One more n°32 MkI scope, but this is mine

[Lou Cypher]

I'm presenting my n°32 MkI, here are some pictures:
It's a basic MkI, waiting for a good bracket.
I bought it in U.K 2 years ago.
Feel free to comment,

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[Peter Laidler]

3782. Not one that's been near me but several of its close brethren have

[Lou Cypher]

I guess that I don't get a scope modified to reduced the backlash.
But is it really important considering that once zeroed at 200m? I won't touched the turret any more.

[Lou Cypher]

This morning I made a cradle for collimating my scope:
It took me a bit longer than 10mn, but I'm happy.
I set my scope on it, and I have this result (I superimposed 4 pictures).
I guess that I have to bring the grat to the center of the optical axis (the intersection of the yellow diagonals) by turning the range and deflection lead screw (yellow arrow) clockwise.
Will I get clicks or is it a fluid, continuous action?
If I understand my readings, I guess that the purpose of the locking ring (green arrow) is to prevent the lead screw, the grat, to move freely. Does the locking ring has any action on the range or deflection drum?
I have the book "telescope sighting No32", these questions are coming after the reading.
Thanks

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[Peter Laidler]

You could get the collimation a bit better than that Lou. The tip of the pointer must rotate on one axis.

The green LEAD SCREW LOCK NUT should be tightened sufficient to prevent the lead screw (yellow) from moving independently of the drum. The lead screw is attached to the graticle block (the diaphragm) so must be locked to the drum. But do NOT over lock/tighten the lead screw nut.

[Lou Cypher]

The tip of the pointer must rotate on one axis.

The picture depicts the situation before the collimation. Now I have to make the tools as you explain in your book. I guess I will obtain a rotation on one axis, should I bring the tip of the pointer on the middle of the yellow diagonals?

[Lou Cypher]

I collimated my scope today, like in the book. The tip of the pointer rotates on one axis but, as soon as I want to tight the locking nut, my scope is no more collimated, there is a thin drift.
Do I have to maintain the lead screw blocked with the tool when I tighten the locking nut?

[vintage hunter]

If I am understanding you correctly then yes you need to hold the lead screw so it doesn't move while tightening the lock nut down if you are going by the book, but you need a third hand to hold the drum while tightening the nut.
There is a simpler way to do it... loosen off the locking nut so the lead screw turns freely then snug the locking nut back down just tight enough to keep the lead screw from slipping when the drum is turned but still loose enough so that it can be turned with the tool for making adjustments without having to loosen the locking nut each time. Just hold the drum and turn the lead screw.

[Lou Cypher]

if you are going by the book, but you need a third hand to hold the drum while tightening the nut

I understand better now the term "third hand". I have 4 more..my children in case of

There is a simpler way to do it... loosen off the locking nut so the lead screw turns freely then snug the locking nut back down just tight enough to keep the lead screw from slipping when the drum is turned but still loose enough so that it can be turned with the tool for making adjustments without having to loosen the locking nut each time. Just hold the drum and turn the lead screw.

I 'm going to try again,
Thank you

[Peter Laidler]

Good advice all round here but you don't need the third or fourth hand if you just do what I and Vintage Hunter says.

Just tighten the lock nut sufficiently enough to HOLD/GRIP the lead screw and NO MORE than that. Then adjust the lead screw that is friction tight. There is absolutely no need whatsoever to lock the lead screw nut more than that!

Look at it another way everyone out there in forumland who insists on tightening the lock nuts down like they're tightening up Boeing 747 wheel nuts (yep...., I've seen these butchers at work and have also had to correct their attempts at butchery, believe me). If simple friction is sufficient to hold the slipping scale on a Mk3 and L1A1 then is there any point in using anything more than simple friction on a Mk1 or 2.............? Question answered!

Sometimes, not in this particular example of course, I feel that instead of explaining things classroom/school fashion, I just want to yell 'just do as you are xxxxxxg told for xxxx's sake'