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still working at it
aircraft broke the other night, eng.1 computer would"nt play nice with eng.2 computer, so i had a chance to pull the scope and see if it was collimated, not even close. after numerouse tries, dicovered the elevation drum would stop at around 400yrds, when centered. and moving the elevation control drum would throw off the grat being centered, when returned to 0. loosened,the four retaining screws and freed up the elevation control and retightened, then set it up to recollimate it, centerd fine and moving the elevation control drum does not change the grat from retaining center at 0. now waiting to get off duty, and find somewhere to boresite at 1kil. or so. as it stands now with a boresiter on it, shows about 6 clicks right and slightly high, if it shows the same at distance, i'll start fileing on the front pad to taper the rear back, to move the grat to the left to center the grat. thanks for all the help, i let everyone no how it turns out, or ask more questions.
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08-28-2014 09:41 AM
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To be honest BK, if the point of the grat shows only 6 or so clicks right then to move it left, you need to move the front pad LEFT with a spacer or file the rear pad thinner to bring the rear in a tad surely.........
But the GOOD news is that if you are only 6 or so clicks left with a collimated scope on a repro scope and rifle, that ain't bad and I would leave it at that and just adjust the grat on the drum to suit. Of course you will get a very slight amount of optical aberration as you veer off onto the compound curvature of the glass, but very little.......
Well done
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Thanks for the input. I want to do it right, so I ordered some brass shim stock, and will try shimming the front pad out a couple of thousands at a time till I get it perfect. Then when I shoot it at the range I can shim for the bullit weight. Thanks again for the help.
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Apologising for my ignrance .... but wouldn´t changing the thickness of just one pad to align the scope lead to distortion of the scope tube?