Adjusting #32 mrk2 clone scope

[bk117]

Hi guys,have a #4 t clone, have some questions about zeroing at 100 yrds. That being said, I read and reread, Peter laidliers, building a clone,and am still confused. I donot have an area I can bore site at 650 yrds, and the local ranges are only 100yrds. I set the turrets on 0 and bore sited the rifle at 100 yrds, then fired some groups, the windage was left about 6inchs, the elevation was shooting 11 inches high. The windage I understand to correct, remove front pad and file the back of the pad to swing the scope left. The elevation I'm not sure i can fix, I can't raise the rear pad. My question is, can I loosen the locking ring, and just lower the grad, to match the poi? Also I'm confused how to zero the adj. drum, I'm under the impression you loosen the locking ring, hold the lead screw, and rotate the drum, then tighten locking ring. Thanks for any input, and sorry for any stupid questions. Don't want to break anything, since parts are unavailable.

Information

Warning: This is a relatively older thread This discussion is older than 360 days. Some information contained in it may no longer be current.

[vintage hunter]

have a #4 t clone

Did you set it up or did you get it this way?

I read and reread, Peter laidliers, building a clone,and am still confused.

If your still confused you haven't read it enough.

The windage I understand to correct, remove front pad and file the back of the pad to swing the scope left.

Nope, if you do this it will move the front of the scope right and POI will be even further left. To move POI right you need to file the back of the rear pad, but don't go hog wild. File just a little at a time, reassemble and check.

I set the turrets on 0 and bore sited the rifle at 100 yrds,

If you are shooting at 100 yards the ranging drum should be on ''1''.

I'm under the impression you loosen the locking ring, hold the lead screw, and rotate the drum, then tighten locking ring.

That's the method according to the book but unless you have a third hand or very nimble toes it ain't as easy as it sounds. There's a better way. Loosen the locking ring until the lead screw turns freely then snug the locking ring back down just enough to keep the lead screw from slipping when the drum is turned. Now all you'll need to do is hold the drum with your fingers and turn the lead screw to make any adjustments, there's no further need or reason to loosen the locking nut.

[bk117]

Thanks for the reply, bought the rifle with the mounts installed , then found a used scope. The range drum was set to 100 yrds, I used 0 to bore site and see where the grat was, it looked centered, for drift and elevation. Then I moved it to 100 yrds and shot a few groups. Peters articles only mentions ,filing the front mount to move the grad.so to move the scope left i thought you file the front inner. Drift was'nt to bad,6 clicks down. Brought it into center. But elevation is 11 inches high. Aiming at lower torso brings center mass impacts, That's why I asked if I could just move the grad down, with the lead screw.

[RobD]

First of all, what ammo are you shooting?

[bk117]

180 grn soft points

[vintage hunter]

Were it mine I'd be more concerned about how well it was put together and how close it collimates than anything else. If all's well and good then move on to sorting what kind of ammo shoots best.

[RobD]

Two suggestions:
1. I see little point adjusting scope - and I strongly advise against filing your mounts - until you are using something similar to Mk VII ball. Prvi Partizan 174 grain FMJ is a good choice. The vertical point of impact is determined by the ammo, and the 11 inches difference could easily disappear by changing ammo.
2. If you bore sight at a distant object, then adjust your scope so the tip of the pointer is on the same object; and use Mk VII (or similar) ammunition: then at 200yds your point of impact should be close to the point of aim.

[Peter Laidler]

Next obvious question to ask before you go any further is this. Is the tip of the telescope centred to the mechanical axis of the telescope bore? If it ain't, then don't bother doing anything else until it is.

And apologies if I sound stupid but is your rifle a clone or is the telescope a clone - or........ what IS a repro part on your set-up?

Answer those and come back. And IF your telescope is the real McCoy, get yourself a box of .303 Mk7 ammo

[bk117]

Sorry for any confusion, the rifle and scope are both clones, I was told the scope was centered to the bore, and when I bore sited it with drift at 0 and elevation at 1 it appeared to be. The longest distance we can get to is 100 yrds. I'm in the process of fabing a fixture to hold the scope, and will start from scratch. Also looking for some hollow point bullets to reload. Majority of north tx ranges, won't allow fmj. I'm a medivac pilot so my schedule won't allow me to work on rifle. For the next couple of weeks till I'm off duty. I'll center the grat in the scope, remount it, and go from there. Thanks to everyone for input, and I'll report back in 2 wks.

[villiers]

Finally got my scoped .308 Enfield No. 5 as accurate as it´ll ever be with the Armalon clamped on rail. It needed a variety of shims and some tweaking but is now in usable condition. But this is definitely NOT a satisfactory solution. Just hope Roger Payne´ll let me get hold of one of his new production mounts and then, with the Trijicon 1" tube AccuPoint scope, the final result will be all that´s expected.