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Thread: Suggestions on "refreshing" a leather scabbard?

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    Suggestions on "refreshing" a leather scabbard?

    I have a nice Britishicon M1907 bayonet with a scabbard that is solid but the leather has seen better times. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can clean the leather and condition it so it can have a bit better appearance? Thanks!
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    Boy Mmmmmmm

    Well saddle soap to clean it as best you can and then maybe Lexol leather conditioner sold at a farm supply or leather tack place might just do it. But if it is to old and weathered , cracking ,fiber in bad shape , it might be behond help.

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    Pecards. I learned about it from folks on the CSPicon years ago. It use in on holsters, sheaths, slings, etc. It doesn't eventually cause cracks or dryness. It changes the color very little. Good luck.

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    I also prefer Pecards Antique Leather Dressing.

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    I just bought some Pecards and first impressions are very good, it cleaned and improved some old leather frogs i had very quick and easy. i woudl be wary of using it on anything too light but for the UKicon black scababrds it woudl be great. for th enon waxed ones shoe polish does a good job of restoring th efinish, although i prefer my stuff to show its age (makes me look better lol )

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert View Post
    I have a nice Britishicon M1907 bayonet with a scabbard that is solid but the leather has seen better times. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can clean the leather and condition it so it can have a bit better appearance? Thanks!
    Pecards or Lexol are both good. Pecards is a paste and Lexol is a liquid. I use them both. I like Lexol because as a liquid, it gets down into the leather fibers, but it will darken the leather when it's applied. Remember that nothing can restore leather fibers. You can only make the undamaged leather more pliable.

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    WD 40 to get it pliable, then seal with 3in one oil. Cheap and easy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shaboogah View Post
    WD 40 to get it pliable, then seal with 3in one oil. Cheap and easy.
    and not good for the leather!

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    Agree, no gun oils or solvents on old leather. Over the years I have tried just about everything recommended for leather, and find that Pecards does the best job of preserving old leather.
    I have a Randall knife I gave my dad some 35 or 40 years back, and the first thing he did was use Neatsfoot Oil which he used on his boots on the scabbard. The scabbard is coming apart today.
    I tried Lexol on a very dry Model 1909 holster, which soaked up the Lexol like water. After several treatments the leather actually worse than before I started, but I figured several more treatments might help. The holster was a total loss after it all dried.
    Mink Oil seemed to be OK, but after a few years everything treated with it formed a white coating. The white seemes to rub off with no harm, but looks bad.
    I then tried Pecards, and have been very pleased with it, especially on old and dry leather. I would forego using saddle soap if it involves wetting the holster, as the old and dry leather soak it up the water like a sponge. For dirty leather I just apply a heavier than usual coat of Pecards, let it set about thirty minutes, and then carefully wipe the leather down with a soft cloth like toweling. Don't rush the treatments, letting the coats set several days before applying another. The thinner the coat the better, and don't use the sun or artificial heat to try and speed up the process.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Johnny Peppers View Post
    Agree, no gun oils or solvents on old leather.
    If you read the ingredients lable on Pecards, it states that it contains petroleum distillates. There is no indgredients list on the Lexol container but their website states that Lexol contains no "chemical solvents". Pecards reminds me of the old "Sno-Seal" paste we used to use on boots for waterproofing. You'd smear it on, wave the boot over a gas burner, and the paste would soak into the leather. I think this is what Pecards does, but at a slower pace since no heat is recommended. What can I say? This is all trial and error without a controlled study.

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