Oops, found out that S&Bs data is for SMG! Pistol runs 1650 fps.
The S&B commercial ammo I've shot is very prone to split cases! Doesn't much matter the weapon. The Wolf (Prvi Partizan, I think) is much better behaved. The Polish surplus was very good, too, but Berdan primed. None as hot as the old Czech military ball.
Outstanding! Got it out of jail today. There are NO dots/stake marks on the top of the slide, and no rebuild marks on the right side of the frame, just a very small CAI address and "7.62 TOK". The left side is serial number and "rid". The serial number on slide, barrel, and frame all match, and the is a "T" in a circle on the barrel breech by the serial number, visible through the ejection port. The barrel is frosty like most vintage military arms, but very good rifling with no real pitting. There is a little surface rust on the breech face and extractor, so it wasn't cleaned well enough last time. the grips are 99+% like the finish of the weapon. It is beautiful!
I have the pistol, holster, cleaning rod, a new pair of grips still sealed in the 1992 dated package, and four Czech made mags; two are grey parked like the weapon, and two are blued, and current mfg. A spare firing pin is on the short list, and a Wolffe 16.5 pound recoil spring is on the way. I didn't want to go heavier, because I will load some plinking ammo for it that won't be as hot as the 1650 FPS S&B. Next month I'll probably get about 400 rounds of S&B FMJ, unless I can find some Wolf Gold HPs.
I will post pictures later.
Next question. I shot BP cartridges for many years in Cowboy Action Shooting, and cleaned the weapons with "Moose Milk" (10% Ballistol and 90% water) then dry and lube with straight Ballistol because it continues to fight the corrosion. Does that formula work with military arms shooting corrosive primers? I use ballistol on all my weapons, including my AK, but haven't shot corrosive ammo with it.
Here's the pictures. I checked, and it passes the "pencil test". When I pull the trigger, the dowel in the bore jumps, but when I use the decocker, it doesn't.
I would think your concoction should work fine. I have on occasion cleaned with nothing but plain hot water then oil after drying with no rust forming.
Since you intend to reload may I suggest you buy some PRVI ammo instead of the S&B. I've never shot any S&B 7.62x25 but have had case splitting issues as mentioned in JM's post with other calibers so tend to avoid it now. Good luck recovering your brass though, mine tends to fling it a good 10 feet and in an erratic pattern between 2 and 5 o'clock. Finding those tiny cases in grassy areas can be a real scavenger hunt.
Just saw the pics, nice looking pistol. Should be a good shooter, albeit a noisy one.
Last edited by vintage hunter; 02-13-2015 at 09:44 PM.
Reason: add comments
I would think your concoction should work fine. I have on occasion cleaned with nothing but plain hot water then oil after drying with no rust forming.
Since you intend to reload may I suggest you buy some PRVI ammo instead of the S&B. I've never shot any S&B 7.62x25 but have had case splitting issues as mentioned in JM's post with other calibers so tend to avoid it now. Good luck recovering your brass though, mine tends to fling it a good 10 feet and in an erratic pattern between 2 and 5 o'clock. Finding those tiny cases in grassy areas can be a real scavenger hunt.
Just saw the pics, nice looking pistol. Should be a good shooter, albeit a noisy one.
Thanks. I'll probably get some Starline brass for loading the HPs. The Sellier & Bellot will be for hot ball ammo. With my rifles (M1 Carbine, AK, and AR) I have started loading mags HP, FMJ (M855 penetrator in the AR and Chinese steel core in the AK), HP, FMJ, etc.
I avoid S&B brass also, doesn't hold up. Yup, Ballistol is great for corrosive ammo and really just about everything I love the stuff. Echoing VH hot water works very well too. I learned that here a few years back and now I have a funnel/hose setup I use with the rifles.
I don't have one of these,, what's the screw looking thing forward of the trigger guard? slide release?
what's the screw looking thing forward of the trigger guard? slide release?
Yes, the take down latch. Some, like mine, can be a pain to break down. Literally. I have to use a piece of leather and pliers to be able to pull it down far enough to release the slide. There's a rather stout spring that holds it in the locked position.
With no stake marks, no rebuild markings on the frame, matching numbers, and original finish, is it possible I have one that was never rebuilt? It's a cherry, maybe.
It looks to still have the original grey oxide finish so I'd say you do.
Was looking around some today in the attempt to find out why mine lacks the usual markings and came across some interesting data on 7.62x25 ammo. According to pressure tests on 7.62x25 military ammo at the Accurate Arms lab in 2000 samples from Russia, China, Bulgaria, Austria and the Czech Republic along with the current commercial S&B offering shows it all has the same working pressures....42,000 C.U.P. Seems this would let the air out of the myth that Czech ammo is ''hotter'' than the rest, pressure wise at least. No velocity data was given so it is possible that the propellant used by the Czech Republic produced higher MV's but working pressures are all the same.
Last edited by vintage hunter; 02-14-2015 at 08:18 PM.
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Originally Posted by imarangemaster
