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Hi Ron - would be happy with some well constructed repros, though I haven't been able to track down any of those for less than $400... and they were on e-bay. No idea if that is good, bad or indifferent? If that is what I have to pay, I guess that's it. However, I would hate to pay that much and then find something reasonable at half the price! At this stage, unless something turns up at a reasonable price I'll hold off, mainly because at this stage I'm not certain how well the rifle will come back together. No point spending too much money on it if it shoots around corners! )
My brother-in-law suggested Brian, so it might be a weekend drive... anyway, hopefully I can do a worthy job on this rifle. Action out of molasses hopefully this weekend. If so I'll post a pick.
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05-01-2015 06:56 PM
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Originally Posted by
SMLE Aussie
I simply want to try and get this rifle back to a reasonable shooting state - that's all... any help would be very appreciated.
Great job Lee. The nuances of "conservation," "restoration" and "preservation" are important. Thanks for sharing your objectives and for the effort you put into keeping this gun out of the hands of the scrap man.
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Interested Observer who also purchased from that batch of flood damaged guns
Yes, I also inspected this batch of guns that smleaussie got his Lithgow, I grabbed a low serial number Saimese SMLE out of that batch (3 digit serial) and regrettable they were all very seriously damaged by flood waters and mud and just left.
I also inspected the Lithgow that is in the process of being restored and noted that the 'disposer'understood what htey may have had and appeard to strip off the scope mount base pads, and scope and this was evident by the 3 charger bridge holes and the 2 receiver ring holes - but in saying that based water/mud damage they would have a significant issue with the scope.
I do understand that the serial numbers are identified by Skennerton as being among the sniper production in Feb 1944.
I myself intend to conserve the Siamese SMLE as I would expect that Siamese parts would be even harder to come by than even sniper parts as there were only 10,000 made.
There were a great deal of wonderful arms from all around the world and times lost in that collection but at least 4 that I know of are being slowly rescued including 2 early Stevens Favorites.
Regards
Mike in Aussie
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Well, that's told us! Seems to me like you asked for advice from what is in fact a discussion forum. We discussed and you got advice. And re para 2, when I say that we saw weapons as bad as that going into our big workshops and coming out rebuilt, then I mean it. I did it, you didn't!
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You don't need a bead blasting cabinet, (it would help) but an easy cheap option is to get one of the spray gun types that you fill the can with the medium..... I,ve used this one in the pic and a similar one with good results. Either do it in an enclosed room or open space and use a backstop to recover some of the medium, NEVER use in the vicinity of machinery etc and use a full face mask.
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Thanks Bigduke6, I'll give that a try...
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Originally Posted by
bigduke6
fill the can with the medium....
What does the Milsurps team of master experts recommend for medium based on experience? (I live next to a supply of fine beach sand, it's cheap, extremely abundant, environmentally safe, and easy to dispose of the aftermath, but perhaps not as good as glass beads or other types). Any recommendations on air pressure, masking off areas, etc.?
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You might find that sand a bit harsh. You can actually remove markings like that. If you use silica sand or glass beads you'll get a nicer finish. Masking is hard but we used to use masking tape and try to stay off it. I've used electric tape too. Why would you need to mask any of that off? The whole thing needs a blasting to start...I should think. Then you have a nice even finish that matches.
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Thanks for the good ideas.
My beach sand is, fortunately, very fine.
Why would you need to mask any of that off?
I was thinking of a No.4 Mk2 I have -- the receiver is very chipped but I don't want to remove the finish from the area around the electro-penciled serial numbers.