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Thread: K98 barrel fix

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  1. #11
    Advisory Panel Patrick Chadwick's Avatar
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    "Nothing like adding a ton of expense to a minor problem and paying someone that's most likely clueless on this particular arm to tell you they can't find anything wrong with it."

    100% agreement. This is cosmetic damage. A new barrel is only indicated if the present barrel is non-functional. It's an RC K98icon - not exactly the rarest rifle in the world, can't be more than a couple of hundred thousand around, so I would first of all totally ignore the cosmetics and find out how well it can shoot!

    Then, if it shot well enough to be worth the bother, I would peen down the raised edges of the dimples. For that you need light, fast blows with a jeweller's hammer. Like Woody Woodpecker. Not clobbering it with a lump hammer from the builder's yard. With a bit of patience this will already noticeably reduce the size of the dimples. Fill with a metal-loaded epoxy (is JB-Weld something of that nature?), file smooth with a diamond lap, patch up the bluing, and what remains will hardly be noticed among all the other dings and scratches. Or leave it as it is and use the well-worn excuse for doing nothing "it's part of its history".
    Last edited by Patrick Chadwick; 07-26-2015 at 06:15 PM.

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  3. #12
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Patrick Chadwick View Post
    (is JB-Weld something of that nature?),
    Yes it is...
    Regards, Jim

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    Hmm, thanks gentlemen these are all good ideas, although I do not plan on replacing the barrel. It is actually quite bright with excellent rifling. For the time being I'll leave it as is while refinishing the stock, but expect a thread revival should that change! I'm leaning towards using the JB weld fix.

    ---------- Post added at 09:45 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:42 AM ----------

    Quote Originally Posted by Aragorn243 View Post
    You think the barrel on this one has problems, check out this one: 1941 Swedish Mauser needs a LOT of help
    WOW! that rifle was in some really tough shape, nice fix!

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    Legacy Member mike webb's Avatar
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    It is an RC. I would draw file the marks and cold blue the area. It will still be visible but not as bad. No fix for such stupidity.

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mike webb View Post
    I would draw file the marks
    Looks too deep to draw file. It'd be an awful large flat spot.

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    Legacy Member vintage hunter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarPig1976 View Post
    Looks too deep to draw file. It'd be an awful large flat spot.
    That all depends on how skilled the person doing the filing is. Properly done by someone that knows how to use to use a file followed up by polishing with fine emery cloth to remove the file marks it will look good. The objective is to cut down the raised ridge around the periphery of each gouge, not remove them entirely. They will still be there afterwards, but they won't be as deep and noticeable as they are now.
    Last edited by vintage hunter; 07-30-2015 at 12:23 AM.

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    Contributing Member Aragorn243's Avatar
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    You've seen my stuff. A lot of that has been draw filed. Barrels are a lot more forgiving than you might think. The trick is to use a fine file rather than a coarse one and to keep the file straight and perpendicular to the stroke. If you go at an angle, it increases the depth and length of the file marks. Emery cloth afterwards is the key and with barrels, long thin strips and two hands working it up and down polishes half the barrel at a time and it's pretty fast also. I think the entire damage could be polished out this way and it wouldn't be all that noticeable if at all.

  11. #18
    Advisory Panel browningautorifle's Avatar
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    I agree, that's draw filing and I've done many the Winchester barrel like that for re-bluing. Works out well...
    Last edited by browningautorifle; 07-30-2015 at 11:57 PM.
    Regards, Jim

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    Legacy Member WarPig1976's Avatar
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    I thought he said invisible. That's what you get for opening your mouth in the middle of cocktail hour. Sorry Mike...

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    Contributing Member Flying10uk's Avatar
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    If it was mine, after removing the stock I would support the barrel on a thick lead block which is it's self supported on something solid with the damage facing upwards and then I would try and lightly tap any high spots down level using a small hammer. Remember any marks on the hammer face will transfer to the barrel. I would then file smooth.

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