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12-24-2015 10:25 AM
# ADS
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We were taught to ALWAYS remove the fore-ends by tapping them downwards equally across the top extreme rear of the fore-end to break the taper hold between the drawers and the butt socket. I cringe when I see people pulling the fore-end down from the muzzle
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Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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Yup, the rear is where I applied steady pressure, but not tapping. I never pull down on the front of the forearm, as you have admonished not to repeatedly in the past. I'll try tapping next time.
Keith
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Tapping....., steady pressure......, same meat different gravy! But I am of the old school and if it ain't broke, then don't fix it. I don't remember the last time any of mine were stripped. So long as they're still shootin' straight, I don't let the Armourers look at 'em - even though there's one right here!
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Thank You to Peter Laidler For This Useful Post:
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Advisory Panel
I have a dedicated block of soft pine that I use to tap them off.
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Good advice Peter. It won't be coming off unless it needs to.
Keith
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Legacy Member
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It's just a shame that the people who modified the fore-ends didn't take heed of the L39 drawing Kev. And the L42 now that I think about it. The quality of the workmanship was an absolute disgrace in many (most in my observation) instances.
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Hi you all! After long time , here i am! What is the metallic plate under trigger guard, around front trigger guard screw?
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It is fully described in the No4T and L42 sniper book Bow
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