Reloading 30-40 Krag question.

[Patrick Chadwick]

Yoopercollector, however you spell cannelure, don't crimp. Parashooter put it quite succinctly.

Let's think this through:
Crimping bends in the mouth of the case. Sharply, with a roll crimp, or more gently, with a taper crimp.
In BOTH styles, the amount of metal forced into the bullet will be more - if the case is longer - or less - if the case is shorter.
In other words: the extraction force when the bullet is fired will vary with the case length!

As far as I can see, if you crimp, then you must have a very closely controlled case length to maintain any kind of consistency of the extraction force.

In other words, crimping produces yet another variable to affect your groups!

As Parashooter wrote - you don't need it, so don't do it.

[yoopercollector]

Thanks for all the help. I just crimp for my semi-auto rifles and pistols then, my bolt actions and revolvers I will not crimp. Hoping to have at least one of the books next week so I can start reading up on reloading. Thanks again for the info.

[Parashooter]

. . . I just crimp for my semi-auto rifles and pistols then, my bolt actions and revolvers I will not crimp. . .

Whoa there, hoss! We don't usually crimp loads for straight or straight/taper rimless cases like .380, .45 ACP, 9mm Parabellum, .30 carbine, and such that use the front end of the case to control how far the round goes into the chamber. At most, we apply a light taper crimp, primarily with lubricated cast bullets that might otherwise get shoved deeper into the case during feed from the magazine.

Crimp is necessary for tube mags and revolvers - and sometimes useful for rimmed or rimless/bottleneck rounds subject to heavy recoil in the magazine or rough treatment during feeding or transport.

Better hit those books!

[CINDERS]

I am sure yoop's will get a handle on the reloading bit a rifle is no different than a pistol it is a sequence of events that has little time for short cuts or I do it this way type of help. But heed the knowledge from the web here as there are allot of armourers and real gunsmiths who have plied their trade for many years. Me I crimp just enough so you can just see the slight deformation of the case mouth all crimps can be set up how you want and one thing you can assure yourself is the neck tension on every round will be pretty much the same.

It is wise to occasionally full length resize the cases as the shoulder may need to be bumped back after a few firings you will notice this from cases that are harder to chamber providing your case length is within specs otherwise you may be forcing a crimp onto the round by the case mouth going into the lede and this causes rather sharp pressure rises.
So have fun and work up loads to suit your rifle also another thing to consider if you are shooting all year round find the most stable powder you can the ADI or the Hogdon line are pretty tolerant to give you an example I use VV-165 in my 6.5/284 during winter as it is too heat intolerant for summer causing rather rapid pressure increases.
Another thing I have done is try 3-4 different powders (small containers) working on the best loads that give consistent accurate results get the data for them settle on the most accurate and stick with that combo, why you ask because if there is a powder shortage of the powder you use all the time then you have a game plan already in place.
And not go to a shoot with a powder load combination that you hope will shoot, this I learnt the hard way means allot of initial work but the benefits are worth the effort.

[Wineman]

Para,

Thanks I stand corrected. I knew it was the wrong spelling but my dog was getting nervous with the New Year's fireworks and random gunshots and I hit send and tended to him.

Dave

[butlersrangers]

'yoopercollector':

The .30-40 Krag is a pleasant cartridge to reload and not as tricky as most. The nice long case neck, ease of neck sizing only, great variety of projectiles available, and wisdom of staying with 'starting loads' keeps it simple.

Do not rule out using 150 to 168 grain 'spitzers'. These will often perform well in a Krag. There is also a long tradition of 'cast bullet' shooting with the Krag. (Lighter projectiles are a good way of lessening pressure and recoil).

Probably the main challenges of the Krag are: 1. A long chamber throat. 2. A bore groove diameter that often runs .3095" or greater. 3. Many Krags have rough bores.

Personally, I have gotten pleasing results from multiple Krags with 165 & 168 grain 'spitzer' bullets of .308" diameter. I seat bullets out as far as practical to allow feeding through the magazine. (OAL - Usually 3.087" boat-tail or 3.115 flat base). (I have tried to find and keep Krags with really nice bores).

The main virtue of the 220 gr. projectile seems to be, that it most closely approximates the original Frankford Arsenal loading so probably agrees more closely with original sight calibrations. Since matches are fired at 100 and 200 yards, and sights are adjustable and repeatable, I don't see this as being such a big 'selling point', to the exclusion of other bullet types and weights.

I would recommend that anyone, interested in shooting the Krag in competition, also join the Krag Collectors Association web site. There are a lot of participants, like 'Parashooter', on that site, who shoot Krags in Vintage Matches and have relevant reloading experience.

[yoopercollector]

Thanks for the help. My Krag has a real nice bore. Right now I am shooting 180 Remington, pretty expensive. I will look at the other loads that the books have in them. Was looking to shoot close to military loads to see how they do, will probably try others to see if they shoot better later. Looking forward to trying other loads in my Enfields and Mausers also. I shoot 174 in the Enfields and 196 in my Mausers right now. Thanks again to everyone for the help.